Archive for September, 2005

Understatement is a virtue, I feel, one that may reveal itself to be surprising and even welcome, later. When you walk off the street into the Peninsula Hotel, you’re impressed not by grandeur or opulence, but rather by understatement. A small bell-captain’s desk, two chairs, and a small vestibule that leads to an elevator. “Is that it? Such a small lobby?”

Indeed, no, when you climb several stories (how many, precisely, I do not know), you end-up at the real-lobby level, one that is far richer, yet still, understated. The pair of desks, one for concierge, and another that qualifies as the front desk, lay beyond, one tucked in an alcove, another, behind a truly ornate, reliefed piece of art. The lighting around you, the textures, and the subtlety of everything around you begin to strike a chord of tender awe, then the true lobby, where tea is served, a grand space, awaits. Since it is the evening, it is so dimly lit, yet, it nevertheless sparkles with a deserved patina of opulence. You, my friend, have finally arrived.

All of this, this raised hotel above underfloors, is the Peninsula, and it’s just four years old. One of Chicago’s dual 5-Star and 5-Diamond hotels, it proffers several dining options. We chose Shanghai Terrace, their less formal, but Chinese-inspired restaurant.

We over-ordered to celebrate. Iced-tea is $6, hot tea is $5.50. Sake is $9-24 a glass. I knew it would be expensive, but the service was good, and the food was excellent. An assortment of dim sum belittered the front-page of the menu; we chose tofu skin wrapped chicken with mushrooms, and crystal lobster dumplings. Next, appetizers of noodle rolls and a salad of Peking duck followed, each with special flavors and textures. Finally, entrées arrived, beef tenderloin with oyster mushrooms, and 5-spice duck. Each were exemplary, one so tender it almost melted away, the other, so well-spiced and flavorful, each bite was special. The menu here is not innovative, it’s not about strong, bold flavors. It’s about refinement, and they do it well. A place such of this is about the fine details, the little things. I felt someone was paying attention to the details, from new silver at each dish, or making sure your tea cup stayed full.

Each dish, each course was good. The menu stretched typical fare, somewhat, infused some French ideas, but more or less offered some authentic glimpses of what good Chinese food can taste like. The range of flavors was less rich than the surroundings, but sadly, I was too full to order dessert.

Recommended, but pricey.

While eating at Daniel, we sampled five courses from their tasting menu. The meal was preceded by assorted double canapes, each of which was simply delicious. A fried cheese number, a salmon mousse, and something else truffly. They were num-nums which satisfied us, and prepared us for more. The menu was difficult to navigate, everything popped off the page with such flowery descriptions that it was tough to choose. Tasting menu, then, it was.

The courses:

• Mousseline of Foie Gras with Fig on Brioche (appetizer x 2)
• Duo of Peeky Toe Crab, one en geée with fennel and cumin-carrot foam, and also with a summer roll with jicama, yellow-curry, and basil salad (fish course 1)
• Tai Snapper Ceviche with Kumquat Coulis, watercress, tomato compote, and radish salad (fish course 1)
• Roasted Striped Bass with Almond-Chanterelle Crust, carmelized cipollini onions, braised lettuce, and bacon jus (fish course 2)
• Slow-Baked Maine Halibut with Satur Farms Carrots, Creamy Spinach, Orange-Mustard Glaze, and a Tellicherry Pepper Sauce (fish course 2)
• Duo of Dry-Aged Beef: Braised Short Rib in Red Wine with Asparagus Mousseline, seared rib-eye with pickled swiss chard, and morilles à la crème (main entrée, x 2)
• Strawberry-Hyssop Vacherin with an Almond Milk Gelée, Lemon Meringue, Marinated Strawberries, and Almond Tuile (dessert)
• Chocolate-Caramel Millefeuille with Vanilla Confiture de Lait “Fleur de Sel” Caramel Ice Cream (dessert)

First, the atmosphere at Daniel lives up to the hype; fresh flowers abound both the lounge, and especially the main dining room. The entrance on an off-street next to Park Ave. is non-descript, save for the overhang above the entrance. Once inside, you are enveloped in a deep red, rich color, the atmosphere is one of utter comfort. The bar area featured a flower arrangement that was simply stunning, it combined both fresh and dried flowers, and the bar area might just have been one of the most inviting and satisfying (visually) to look at. Well-done.

Service was good. I was somewhat annoyed at the end having to wait for the check to arrive after dessert was finished, and cleared, but save for this snafu, things went smoothly. All service personnel did well to make us feel comfortable, to explain dishes on the menu, and dishes were served in concert and explanations.

I can’t personally speak for every item listed above, but the opening official course #1 of foie gras was disappointing. The best foie gras dish I’ve had in recent years has been at 1 North Belmont here in Richmond. This was a mousse of foie gras, which meant it had to be spread on something… they provided toasted brioche. It as good, mind you, but it was more for the texture of the spread, than the taste. The fig jam was good, but maybe even too strong for the dish to really sparkle. It was good, but for this quality of restaurant, it left me wanting more, or better.

The fish dishes were good; they were perfumed and scented with a variety of flavors and smells that told me that great lengths were taken to create the dishes I experienced. Even so, they lacked flavors strong enough to scream.

The two samples of beef were incredible. The thin shaved asparagus served alongside the beef was wonderful, by virtue of its texture. The rib-eye piece was so flavorful, so perfect a morsel of food, it deserves special praise. I only wish their had been more.

Finally, the dessert… Madalines were served alongside dessert wine, coffee, and the more elaborate desserts. Mine was an elaborate cookie and a canelle of ice cream… incredibly rich, complex, layered flavor. The “cookie” “mille fueille” was underwhelming, in total honesty, but then again, there was nothing that wasn’t delicious.

Daniel offers creative dishes, a delicious decor, and even more delicious options on a well-composed menu. Every dish didn’t sing 4 stars for me, but dinner was nevertheless a work of culinary art. It’s hard to say if the cuisine is “have to have it” among all the options in New York, but for those with a taste for creative cuisine, elaborate preparations, or simply layers of flavor, it may well be deserving of your time.