While eating at Daniel, we sampled five courses from their tasting menu. The meal was preceded by assorted double canapes, each of which was simply delicious. A fried cheese number, a salmon mousse, and something else truffly. They were num-nums which satisfied us, and prepared us for more. The menu was difficult to navigate, everything popped off the page with such flowery descriptions that it was tough to choose. Tasting menu, then, it was.

The courses:

• Mousseline of Foie Gras with Fig on Brioche (appetizer x 2)
• Duo of Peeky Toe Crab, one en geée with fennel and cumin-carrot foam, and also with a summer roll with jicama, yellow-curry, and basil salad (fish course 1)
• Tai Snapper Ceviche with Kumquat Coulis, watercress, tomato compote, and radish salad (fish course 1)
• Roasted Striped Bass with Almond-Chanterelle Crust, carmelized cipollini onions, braised lettuce, and bacon jus (fish course 2)
• Slow-Baked Maine Halibut with Satur Farms Carrots, Creamy Spinach, Orange-Mustard Glaze, and a Tellicherry Pepper Sauce (fish course 2)
• Duo of Dry-Aged Beef: Braised Short Rib in Red Wine with Asparagus Mousseline, seared rib-eye with pickled swiss chard, and morilles à la crème (main entrée, x 2)
• Strawberry-Hyssop Vacherin with an Almond Milk Gelée, Lemon Meringue, Marinated Strawberries, and Almond Tuile (dessert)
• Chocolate-Caramel Millefeuille with Vanilla Confiture de Lait “Fleur de Sel” Caramel Ice Cream (dessert)

First, the atmosphere at Daniel lives up to the hype; fresh flowers abound both the lounge, and especially the main dining room. The entrance on an off-street next to Park Ave. is non-descript, save for the overhang above the entrance. Once inside, you are enveloped in a deep red, rich color, the atmosphere is one of utter comfort. The bar area featured a flower arrangement that was simply stunning, it combined both fresh and dried flowers, and the bar area might just have been one of the most inviting and satisfying (visually) to look at. Well-done.

Service was good. I was somewhat annoyed at the end having to wait for the check to arrive after dessert was finished, and cleared, but save for this snafu, things went smoothly. All service personnel did well to make us feel comfortable, to explain dishes on the menu, and dishes were served in concert and explanations.

I can’t personally speak for every item listed above, but the opening official course #1 of foie gras was disappointing. The best foie gras dish I’ve had in recent years has been at 1 North Belmont here in Richmond. This was a mousse of foie gras, which meant it had to be spread on something… they provided toasted brioche. It as good, mind you, but it was more for the texture of the spread, than the taste. The fig jam was good, but maybe even too strong for the dish to really sparkle. It was good, but for this quality of restaurant, it left me wanting more, or better.

The fish dishes were good; they were perfumed and scented with a variety of flavors and smells that told me that great lengths were taken to create the dishes I experienced. Even so, they lacked flavors strong enough to scream.

The two samples of beef were incredible. The thin shaved asparagus served alongside the beef was wonderful, by virtue of its texture. The rib-eye piece was so flavorful, so perfect a morsel of food, it deserves special praise. I only wish their had been more.

Finally, the dessert… Madalines were served alongside dessert wine, coffee, and the more elaborate desserts. Mine was an elaborate cookie and a canelle of ice cream… incredibly rich, complex, layered flavor. The “cookie” “mille fueille” was underwhelming, in total honesty, but then again, there was nothing that wasn’t delicious.

Daniel offers creative dishes, a delicious decor, and even more delicious options on a well-composed menu. Every dish didn’t sing 4 stars for me, but dinner was nevertheless a work of culinary art. It’s hard to say if the cuisine is “have to have it” among all the options in New York, but for those with a taste for creative cuisine, elaborate preparations, or simply layers of flavor, it may well be deserving of your time.