City Zen - Washington, D.C.
Tonight I had the pleasure of dining at CityZen at the Mandarin-Oriental Hotel in Washington. With a chef who trained and worked at the French Laundry, I expected good things and good things, we did in fact, find.
You have two choices for dinner: 5/course or 3/course. We chose the 3-course dinner menu, but our eating was augmented by little surprises…. a most delicious mushroom nibble, served in a sauce so flavorful, it was the purest essence of fungus. Delicious. Next, came a warm egg custard topped with a peppery sauce so good I momentarily dreamed of living the rest of my life in egg custard. Breads were served with two butters, and a box of mini parker-house rolls were so salty and buttery I felt special grabbing for each one.
My appetizer was a fish sandwich—raw fish served atop a little bread with a beet base. Fresh essence of the sea. We also had the baby artichoke salad which was quite remarkable, it tasted of the essence of what we might describe as “freshness.” I know the veggies were dead, but I imagined I was eating a live plant.
Both entrées the same, we ordered shoat. I was not sure what this is, and I feel a little bad about eating it… very young, baby pigs. The meat was served off rib bones, the smallest little chops you ever did see. And how flavorful they were. Each one, followed by a parker-house mini-roll chaser was excellent. Next was a palate-cleanser, an aperatif made with vanilla, lime, and passion fruit. Yum. For desserts, an upside-down pineapple cake with a granita and chili pepper, and a Valrhona/cinnamon brioche number with a fruit marmalade (the menu said orange, the waiter said cherry).
Service was great; it wasn’t the top/top quality, but this is easiest the best hotel restaurant I’ve eaten at, considering hotels and not specialty inns. Those looking for Asian cuisine might visit the hotel’s other restaurant, but those looking for innovative twists with a basis in French technique can come here.
I don’t often award 5, but… this meal was excellent.