Archive for December 3rd, 2006

Arzu’s is located right “around the corner” from the Hotel Roanoke, in Roanoke, Virginia. Having dined there many times, I had the opportunity to return, again, and was once again not disappointed.

This family-run business serves “International” cuisine, but much of it borders or leans Italian. Seafood, pastas, and veal weigh heavily on the menu. Each time, all the entrées are impeccably consistent in preparation. Nothing is overly fancy. Many veal dishes, for instance, are each served in their “brown” sauce, and covered in cheese. This is not some fancy cuisine, but instead preparations that are tested over time, and crowd-pleasing favorites.

We had sweetbreads of veal, pasta, fish, and more, and all was well-received. The mussels were dry. The desserts are on a cart, and this time the baba was a favorite, light, yet rich and sweet, served with a zabliogne sauce. Arzu’s is a favorite. It’s still all it ever was… The specials seemingly never change, nor does the help… but the dining room is always welcoming, with the scent of garlic in the air. Worth a visit, if you’re in town on business, or just a resident.

This curiously-named new Asian-inspired restaurant is owned by Chef David Du, and is located off Cox Road in Richmond’s far west-end.

I’ve eaten here twice now, both times on Friday nights. The first time was probably their second or third day open, and began virtually empty at 6:45 PM. Things had picked up before leaving, however. I tried three courses—a spectacular 5-spice rib appetizer, coconut-spicy shrimp with mango, and their 3-dessert sampler.

The waitress was awfully chatty, almost too much so to enjoy the evening. She kept asking how we liked everything. If I’m beta-testing the menu, I’d expect a discount.

My only real complaint was that the entrées, for the prices, were a tad small. The food, and decor, was upscale and pleasing.

My second visit was met with far more customers, but still no reservation required. The owner is the son of one of the owners of the Peking-restaurant empire in Richmond. His take is chic New York style, with techno music and more exciting dishes.

I had the fried oysters appetizer. It was delicious, but not filling—these are one-person affairs, not for two. My companion had the Thai-inspired calamari. It was less a winner: a tad chewy, but the sauce and addition of squeezed lime was nice. It needed salt.

My entrée of vegetable tempura was huge. The dipping sauce was standard, but too little of it was served. We had to ask for extra silverware twice—single forks were only brought for the entrées. The service was friendly, however. Our first waitress was now a busser.

The half-chicken entrée was good, but the sides that evening—simple, steamed bok choy, was too much of that—plain, and uninspired. At the prices and level they’re aiming for, better is what we’re expecting.

Still growing and feeling their way, Dd33 has promise. Some real winners were to be had in these two early visits. I will likely give them a month or so and see what’s to be had… I recommend it, nevertheless, for the new drama it brings to the Richmond-scene. This one might be a real winner.

Located on Market Street in downtown Roanoke, Virginia, Table 50 offers new twists on French cuisine.

On a recent journey to Roanoke, VA, I visited Table 50, supposedly run by the folks behind Frankie Rowland’s steakhouse. This was notable, for the layout of this restaurant (bar in front, leather chairs, long seating along one side) was simliar. Smaller, for sure, this place is found alongside the market area. On this particular evening, they were offering a pork entrée special with apples.

I started with one of their special martinis - they offered apple in both sour and sweet. It was enjoyable and well-done. The she-crab soup was delicious, as well. In fact, the menu had many fine things to offer, choosing which one of what you wanted proved difficult.

Other diners raved about the cheese plate. Offered here as an appetizer instead of a dessert. It was a bold choice, and one I felt I would have liked to have tried. Others were less enthusiastic about cheese, but the consensus was “good, great!”

The entrées had rave reviews, the table around. Mine was less well-received. I ordered the duck confit with poached pear with blue cheese. The pear portion was excellent. The duck was not bad, but not fantastic. It ultimately was dry.

At this point, I’d give high raves for Table 50. The dessert of two crème brûlées was a disappointment. The first, a fruit-flavored one, was typical, but not as creamy nor tasty as the classic. The second, presented in chocolate with coffee beans, was awful—like a bad chocolate pudding. Another chocolate dessert, however, won praise.

It seems Table 50 is on its way to pleasing some Roanokers. Choose wisely—some items on the tempting menu will please, others may disappoint.

Vietnam 1 BBQ is located off W Broad Street at Horsepen, next to the Tan A Supermarket in Richmond’s west-end.

Vietnam 1 is about simplicity, not a place to impress anyone on decor or out of the ordinary service. Instead, it’s about simple, classic Vietnamese-restaurant classics, served affordably, and quickly. The server will come and take your order, and bring it out, but otherwise, you can concentrate here on choosing some delicious choices. When you’re done, go pay up front, and know your table number—a check won’t be brought over.

I remember this establishment in its slightly more regal incarnation as Saigon Bistro in Innsbrook. The owner moved closer to Richmond, and closer to more Asian diners, off Horsepen Rd. Since doing so, it’s always busy. Standards include broken-rice dishes, Pho and noodle soups, and even some more Chinese-style dishes served with rice. Things like lemongrass pork, BBQ tofu, and chicken.

I’ve never been a fan of those dishes that serve rice paper instead of rice. The appetizers here, such as the “fresh” style shrimp spring roll, or fried spring roll, are good. The vermicelli bowl with BBQ pork and spring roll is a favorite. Today I had their “N7,” a chicken-based noodle soup with pork wontons.

Nothing here is ever very fancy, but the quality is pretty consistent. Soft drinks are served from the can. Some dishes are spicy enough, you’ll feel like blowing your nose afterwards. And for Pho soups, it is among our favorites in the area.

If you like plain and tasty Vietnamese food, this one should be sought out.

A classic feel good dish, deep with flavor and warmth, can be found in that classic found just about everywhere nowadays, French Onion Soup. Sometimes it is labeled gratinée to denote that it has been topped with a crouton and cheese in the salamander, bubbling and brown on top.

I’ve seen everything used, from provolone, to Swiss, to Parmesan. I believe the appropriate, and correct cheese to use is Emmenthaler. But I did not follow a standard recipe religiously, instead, choosing my own variations.

• 5 medium to small onions, thinly sliced
• butter
• salt, fresh-ground black pepper
• brandy
• chicken stock
• 1 bay leaf
• dried thyme
• 4 cloves garlic for soup, 2 for bread
• baguette slices
• sun-dried tomato pesto
• Emmenthaler cheese, grated

I toasted the bread slices in the broiler, and later added them to the soup. I first coated each one with the sun-dried tomato mixture, then with garlic, and then covered that with cheese.

The soup was started with onions and butter, until the onions began to brown. Then I added the herbs and bay. I also added flour to soak up the fat, and thicken the soup.

Next, add your liquid. I normally go half-half on the chicken and beef, but this time used all chicken stock. I fortiifed it with one dried morel mushroom, and veal demi-glace.

The soup came to the boil, and reduced. I added the brandy, more pepper, and the crushed and chopped garlic. Finally, it was served, with the croutons floated.

The croutons were a delicious touch.

The salad was a mâche, frisée mixture, and I added sliced sweet-cured ham. The dressing was made from Gulden’s mustard, balsamic vinegar, sea salt, fresh pepper, and northern-Italian olive oil. I also added more of the grated cheese to the salad.

This was an excellent, fulfilling meal. Still better when beef stock is used, but nonetheless, a beautiful flavor.