Marcel’s is located at 2401 Pennsylvania Avenue in Washington, D.C.

No doubt, alongside Mother’s Day, Easter is a very popular time to enjoy a Sunday brunch at a restaurant. While many brunches convene around the buffet, this Easter I chose to dine at the French/Belgian location called Marcel’s. Receiving very enthusiastic reviews for dinner from the Washington Post among others, I thought this place might proffer a fitting brunch, without the more-common buffet. Buffets are nice, sure, but they tend to not be associated with the highest echelon of dining.

Marcel’s is a beautiful restaurant, walking-in, you recognize from the table-topping linens to the stemware, to the color on the walls, and the red buffets, that things are bound to be rich and satisfying. Each headwaiter at Marcel’s this afternoon was responsible for three tables; other personnel saw to bread service, drink service, and the like. The crowd tended to be dressy, but not so much as the waitstaff whom all looked impeccable.

Brunch was a three-course affair; appetizer, entrée and dessert. We both chose the smoked salmon appetizer, served alongside a quail’s egg, a topping of mayonnaise-style dressing, frissée, and a criss-crossing of asparagus. I often equate really good smoked salmon with the texture and salty flavor of really good parma ham. In this instance, the cut of salmon was thicker than most, and while more “mushy” than proscuitto, it was a delicious opening. We were jealous, however, of other patrons who had chosen the shrimp-laden creamy corn soup that is served with a flourish from one waiter who serves the soup per order from a communal terrine.

Pan-seared halibut with a creamy presentation of potatoes and spinach made one entrée, while other was a filet of beef with what I take was a parsnip purée, port sauce, and a hefty, round wedge of stilton on top. The cheese is not to everyone’s liking; personally I love a good stilton, ever since eating it presented in a flakey pastry with an apple topping for dessert at Classics in Cleveland, OH circa 1990-91. Here it mixed with the port sauce, parsnip purée, and presented a rich backdrop for the meat. Filet isn’t the most flavorful of meats, so I enjoyed the meat’s texture and the combination of rich flavors.

Dessert was the finest course at Marcel’s, we ordered the crepe suzette and the caramel-apple tart with ice cream. Both desserts were manageable in size. The crepes were served in a domed plate, and a small dollop of ice cream was served on the side, in a separate, yet attached angular bowl. For sake of presentation, watching these domed contraptions make their way across the dining room to diner’s tables was fun, the best part the candied orange sticking in the ice cream. I think having tasted both desserts the crepes win; there’s nothing quite like the simple, but somehow sensual crepe suzette. As I finished a dessert wine, we considered other fanciful crepes desserts, named after women we know, the flavoring matching the personality.

The meal at Marcel’s was good. The service I felt was lacking panache. While I read that Marcel’s isn’t stuffy, I felt that it in fact was impersonal.

As one review I read said, “This isn’t the best meal I’d had, but for this price, I haven’t eaten so well.” Expect to spend some time here, service is relaxed, and I am sure no doubt most will find something to enjoy. For Easter brunch, it was a special meal, but Washington no doubt offers better food and better service.

This review originally appeared online in April, 2006.