Racine
Located on Robinson Street in Richmond, Virginia, Racine is open for dinner serving French cuisine. Before I talk about their food, perhaps a word on my history with French food.
The first real French food I might have had, and this is of course said tongue-in-cheek, was at Epcot Center at Walt Disney World in the 1980s. My parents, knowing a good steak or a good sandwich, but far-removed from the world of cuisines, foodies, and the history of gastronomy, never explored French cuisine as a family habit. Of course, you can hardly eat out today in a finer restaurant without French influences, but since living in Richmond, I have quite enjoyed the foods called French at Can-Can, La Petite France, and now at Racine. I think I can confidently say I enjoy French food, although I have yet to see or visit France.
Racine’s decor is dark, the restaurant is dominated by a bar which catered more customers on a Friday night than the restaurant. Our waiter and host was an older French gentleman who was nice and cordial. While the menu at Racine is full of high-dollar entrées (topping at $30 for the fresh lobster, or $24 for a steak), the atmosphere is hardly haughty or fussy. No tie required.
I started with the classic (some might say cliché) onion soup, which was delicious and rich. I make this dish at home quite often, and I could tell they did a good job. We also ordered the plate of mussels which were cooked to perfection, and came served with cherry tomatoes and garlic.
For entrées we ordered the veal chop and lobster. The lobster was thankfully out of its shell, arranged with chantarelle mushrooms and a buttery, mustard sauce. “Delicious.” My veal entrée was served with dauphinoise potatoes which lacked salt, but had the most earthy, wholesome flavor, and were quite delicious. Spinach also appeared on the plate, propping-up the veal chop.
The veal chop was perfectly cooked, came with dots of a wine sauce on the plate, and the first bite was like a buttery melting taking place in the mouth. The entire plate was delicious, and the portions on both entrées were sane. No huge platters. The prices might be a couple dollars too high, I think, but the quality was there.
I like bread, too, and their butter was tasty.
I did finish the meal with a classic crème brülée. It was delicious, and real flecks of vanilla permeated the custard. We also ordered a chocolate mousse that I was less impressed with; it was spiked with a fruity liqueur and was a bit heavy for my taste in (lighter) mousses.
While marketing speak says Racine serves dishes with edge, I found their menu pretty tame, but with plenty to arouse the senses. If you don’t mind tight booths and a dirty bathroom, Racine may your place for delicious French food without pretense or fuss.
The physical features of the place could improve, but the food was excellent.
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