Pilgrimage to Washington
Another review from the archives: my first review of the Inn at Little Washington from August 8, 2005. In this month’s (January, 2008) Washingtonian magazine, they review the top 100 restaurants in the metro-D.C. area. The Inn ranked at #6. They noted a drop in quality since the Inn’s owners at split their ways.
I remembered several years ago, when he was still living, Carl Sagan telling us (in a speech/visit to the University of Rochester) that the Earth was this little blue dot in the cosmos. I closed my eyes, I imagined looking into space, and squeezed my eyes tight… I saw all those little stars, and wondered, you know, just what Earth, this bejeweled little planet, looked like. The concept has taught me, incidentally, that even in the most remote, far-off places, there can be hope, something good, wholesome, or perhaps, something worthy calling bejeweled. There are diamonds in the rough, there are needles in haystacks, you get the idea. Where to find them, of course, is often enough the issue. The price for finding that something special in a far-away place may be high.
It was several years ago I became aware of Little Washington, Virginia. It was dubbed “the little brother” of our capital, but it lives some 70 miles west of Washington, D.C., in the Blue Ridge mountains, in Rappahannock county. Of course, the only reason I learned of this little town was because of the inn there, dubbed plainly as “The Inn at Little Washington.” It isn’t the only inn, but certainly, it is the inn. Known throughout the country as a gourmet’s destination, it’s both holder of the AAA 5 diamonds plus the Mobile 5 stars. A surprise came to me recently when it was chosen for the location to celebrate my recent birthday.
Chef Patrick O’Connell is referred by many, to be one of the foremost chefs in the country, if not the world. What I found fascinating about my trip to Little Washington was the fact that this tiny town (with less than 200 inhabitants) is completely centered, it seems, around the business brought by this inn and restaurant. There are no special signs to lead you there; you simply drive to Washington, and there it is, on the corner of Main and Middle streets, the same streets laid-out by surveyor George Washington, when he was 17.
What diners find fascinating is the cuisine served here year-round. The oppulence of the decor excites the senses as you enter the dining room. The inn is decorated in what I would call a classic baroque styling, which doesn’t say much; you have to see it to believe it — you simply have to see the richness to appreciate what it is. Likewise with the food, it is so good that words hardly portray it justice.
We opted for the tasting menu, which included nine courses, in addition to a selection of amuses bouches. These canapes included simple things, from the world’s smallest B.L..T. to a mini rabbit turnover, to a parmesan crisp. The tasting menu comes with a pairing of wine for each course. Myself not being in any way a wine connoisseur, I enjoyed having a selection of wines to match each course. For me, it was illuminating to see what exactly is meant by wine “that matches food,” and each selection was brought to the table by Scott, the sommelier, who explained in great detail the attributes of each wine. Without haste, let me tell you what was on my menu.
- Sweet Beet Soup Froth
- Shaved Confit of Duck Foie Gras with Fig Marmalade and Sauternes Jelly
- Sorrel Jelly with Lemon Cream and Osetra Caviar
- Prawns Roasted on Sizzling Salt
- Pecan-Crusted Soft Shell Crab Tempura with Italian Mustard Fruit
- Sesame Crusted Chilean Sea Bass with Silver Queen Corn Succotash
- Braised Veal Cheek with Ravioli of Virginia Country Ham and Fontina
- Ginger Panna Cotta with Passion Fruit Granité
- Limoncello Soufflé with Lemon Ice Cream
First, the best of these courses is hard to pinpoint. My least favorite was the veal cheek; something psychological about it perturbed me. The flavor was deep, dark, and the leathery scent of the wine matched very well. It was good, mind you, but my least favorite course. The dough of the ravioli was far too cooked; it simply melted away against my fork.
The flavor of the sea bass was mild; what made this dish a great winner was that corn base, which included the most garlic-infused shrimp you ever did taste. It was the essence of garlic. The prawns on sizzling salt were also excellent, their texture so fresh, so plump, so extraordinary. The scent of the olive oil dipping sauce was the essence of Tuscany in scent. The peppers in the oil weren’t that spicy, which if they could have been, might have been more interesting.
The foie gras, always a favorite, and the sorrel cream with caviar were tops. That Sauternes jelly and the little toast you get to “build” by putting everything else on top, was simply divine. The soup that came before was sweet, refreshing, and served in a little cup. No spoon required.
The soft-shell crab tempura was no less exciting, a combination of flavors and textures that were both enticing and luxurious. The two desserts were likewise excellent; the panna cotta for me was the true winner: such a rich, thick, luxurious cream topped with the exotic, icy flavor of the “granita.” The soufflé and ice cream were good, but I thought the soufflé was too “thick,” and not light enough. This prevented the ice cream going inside as a “sauce.” The hot and cold mixture was great, but to blend them more completely would have been best.
Service was not extraordinary. It was excellent. It was attentive, yet relaxed. It wasn’t overdone, yet, it was just right. Each item that came to the table was explained (as if we wanted to know, and we did), and the attention to detail in service was echoed by the decor and by the passion of those in the kitchen. I liked how each person was named by wearing a tag; we got to know them all by meal’s end, only for the bread lady who never did utter a word. She was the silent bread lady.
This most definitely is one of the most hallowed halls of cuisine around, and I was fortunate enough to take part in the pleasures afforded its guests. The small town offers some art galleries, but more likely, you’ll enjoy the choice of lodgings to celebrate the meal as it should be celebrated… with an open mind, a ready stomach, and an attitude of taking things easy once it is all done. The magic they tell us about is true, even alive, here. Most highly recommended. One of a kind. Just like the little blue dot amidst the cosmos.
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Filed by MessyChef at January 1st, 2008 under French, Restaurant Review