Archive for February, 2008

I recently had the opportunity to visit 202 Market, a modern-style restaurant and lounge in downtown Roanoke, VA. They use such terms as “5-star” and “world-class” to describe themselves. This pompous attitude is echoed in their decor, artwork, and atmosphere: can such a place exist in the otherwise sleepy town of Roanoke?

Pompous perhaps, but well-deserved, too. This place had an incredibly imaginative menu that when tested with our tasting, won rave reviews across the board.

The waitstaff was not pompous; instead, they were well-trained, honest, and very knowledgeable about the ingredients and dishes. The atmosphere was modern, edgy, comfortable, and whimsical. You imagine that perhaps after a nice visit to the new, modern-designed museum downtown, that you might stroll-over to this vibrant place for delicious snacks, live music, or both.

Something like foamy lobster with green beans in a lukewarm-smear of wasabi-scented whipped potatoes. “Unusual combinations of temperature, spice, and sour are in this dish, amazing” was at least one comment that was echoed across several dishes.

I opted for a smaller duet of plates, from the English pea agnolotti with speck, to the root-vegetable-encrusted lobster bites with sweet, sour, and creamy flavors and textures. Each taste combination was calculated, for sure, but ultimately pleasing, intriguing, and satisfying.

Imagine our delight when a quartet of equally inventive desserts made their way out, from a whole host of flavors like banana, chocolate, saffron, and more covered the gamut from satisfying and familiar to exotic and sublime. Where else will you find desserts that contain Fruity Pebbles, and Dr. Pepper-soaked pop rocks?

All in all, everything was delicious. We enjoyed watching the dinner being made via flat-screen TVs that were connected to in-kitchen cameras. 202 Market just might be world-class. I hope it can stay in Roanoke; it is a destination restaurant that changes its menu often, and promises a variety of entertaining options.

Last week, we returned to Sensi Restaurant on East Cary Street in downtown Richmond.

Each time I have visited, the dining room gets smaller (it’s me, not really the room), and the whole place loses its mystique (familiarity takes over and you now feel more at home). The menu has some “favorites” to choose from, and some new additions.

The crabcake appetizer with prosciutto di parma and julienned melon was divine. This was a special appetizer that was absolutely delicious: it was fresh, well-spiced, and combined an intriguing set of flavors. Sparkling water was a nice offset, cleaning my mouth with its bubbles from the richness introduced by the parma ham and the creamy sauce that played a big role in the dish’s execution.

My entrée of a tagliatelle pasta was less successful, but it nevertheless was tasty. It simply wasn’t a superstar dish like the crab and prosciutto appetizer. Other diners, however, liked their entrées:

The lobster was excellent, one report said, although the MessyChef himself can make a better risotto. I blush, and compliments to the diner! The only thing wrong with this dish was the overpowering salty flavor from the salmon eggs. Personally, I like the color, but real caviar would have likely been a better match. Or truffles. You can’t go wrong with those.

A steak preparation was beautiful to look at, perhaps characterized by the words “understated elegance.” Presentation aside, my fellow diner very much liked the beef entrée and would recommend it to others.

With a round of appetizers and entrées, we skipped dessert, and instead, ordered our favorite versions of coffees: lattés and cappuccinos. They came soon enough, but were small portions that for me at least, arrived too cold. While a $2.50 latté might be a cheap alternative to one of their more pricey desserts, it at least should be something to write home about. The waitress spilled 1/6 (give or take a splash) of the drink outside the cup, too, so I was left with a sticky cup and a drink that should have been piping hot, but was lukewarm. Underwhelming for the end of an otherwise quite enjoyable meal.

We came back to Sensi because we liked our previous visits, but they still haven’t been firing full-power on all engines. Yet, the potential is still there. For some innovative dishes, some primo ingredients, and flair in Italian cuisine, we still would return to Sensi in downtown Richmond. Rating Sensi is difficult for me; in the world-class range, it’s a “3,” but considering what Richmond is currently offering, I’ll let it maintain its “4”.

I recently made this gourmet dish, something simple, yet really delicious.

First, I cut up some red-skinned potatoes and roasted them with olive oil and garlic on a super-hot sheet pan in the oven. I later added parsley and salt.

Second, I seared two filets mignon, covered in pepper and salt at medium-high heat until all sides were “browned.” Next, I transferred the steaks to the oven, after being covered with generous portions of a blue goat’s cheese. The goat part was a surprise I learned about later; I’d recommend Maytag blue, otherwise.

Third, I made a mushroom sauce. I diced sweet onion, and cooked that in butter and EVOO until they were very soft; I next added garlic and two portabella mushrooms, also chopped. After sweating for awhile, I added fresh-cracked pepper, beef demi-glace, and red wine.

This simmered over medium-low heat. With 5 minutes left, I mounted the sauce with more bleu cheese and parsley.

The steaks got covered (obviously) in the delicious sauce.

Sometimes a simple meal is among the most delicious.

Our house “fried rice” is not dark like you see in a lot of Chinese restaurants. Instead of salting the rice with copious amounts of flavorful soy sauce, I like to use Moldon brand sea salt. It’s both crunchy and salty enough for the mouthful of rice you get on each spoonful.

For a vegetable, we had garlicky green beans.

Speaking of salt, I found an online salt purveyor that looks interesting: SaltWorks. Their prices on bulk quantities looks promising.

For this year’s Chinese New Year, we made a variety of dishes we decided upon earlier this week.

• Scallion Pancakes
• Egg Drop Soup
• Fried Dumplings
• 8-Treasure Rice Dessert

I used all the right ingredients, but strayed too far on the technique. These were lackluster, for sure. But the sauce I made was delicious. I used reduced soy sauce, balsamic glaze, sesame oil, and garlic-chili sauce to make a nice and thick pancake sauce.

By using too much Crisco, they fell apart easily.

Expert dumpling makers were called upon to fill dumpling wrappers. I never found what was inside; but they tasted great. We added a second sauce for dipping, this one with spicy peppers, more sesame oil, sherry vinegar, and a dash of soy. The special ingredient was Hoisin sauce.

The filling had vegetables and pork inside.

For the egg drop soup, we used a rich chicken stock with cornstarch, ginger, and eggs.

You can garnish the soup with scallions.

We ate the soup and pancakes first, then took a break while the dumplings were cooked.

After pan-frying the dumplings, add water to steam them to complete the cooking process.

Cover them with the sauces we made both for the pancakes, and the second variation, mentioned above.

Finally, for dessert, we made a so-called “eight treasure rice.” This is sweet rice combined with various dried fruits and red bean paste, that is then steamed into a mould shape.

Individual slices/scoops were then served to each guest.

Happy Chinese New Year!