MessyCuisine

Zed Café

I recently was searching out websites for Richmond places to eat, and came across Zed Cafe, a new venture that focuses on the local/responsible quality of ingredients.

Located on Richmond’s north side on Lakeside, Ave., Zed is located in what appears to be two former storefronts in a small strip mall, conveniently located right off I-95.

The space is modern, with original art adorning the walls, an exposed air duct following the ceiling, and spartan tables with butcher paper for covering. It reminded me in certain terms of Oxo in Charlottesville; here, however, the mood is darker, the ambiance less grand.

I started with a wonderful brioche and cheese “sandwich” appetizer with apples and walnuts. This dish was absolutely sublime. It was so good, in fact, I could have eaten a mountain of it. The textures and the flavor of butter, apple, an apple-spirit, and the cheese all came together in an interplay of texture, savory flavor and luxurious sweetness. I at once could forgive my dining partner for choosing the appetizer I wanted first, a marinated mozzarella salad with garlicky dressing. This was better.

My appetizer was good, but not superb. I ordered the crab cakes which were served amid a basil butter. Between the two broken cakes were cheesy grits (they were good).

The crab cakes were dusted in corn meal and fried; they lacked the cake-yness that many folks complain of; instead, it was mostly all crab on the plate. Nothing was wrong with this, of course; the flavor profile however was a bit bland. Some sort of sweet drizzle over the crab would have heightened flavors; more salt in the grits… we could have had a real winning combination. The size was good, not overly large.

Along with bread, I was getting full. But our waitress tempted us with desserts; I could not resist the idea of banana/chocolate bread pudding.

This is something I’d like to try and serve guests to my home; I know it couldn’t have been difficult. The flavors were delicious. It could have been even better with a real vanilla crème anglais sauce on top; maybe even one with some white chocolate folded in. Instead, we got simple whipped cream. Not awful, but a more sophisticated sauce, offering more wetness, and maybe even a more fragrant chocolate (a Guittard or even a Schaffenberger) would have sent this thing over the top.

We both would like to return to Zed. But a few notes:

• my dessert was served on a chipped plate.
• new silver is not brought out for each course; I think it should be.
• food service was quick.
• our waitress was a smoker. I didn’t like finding that out.
• our waitress bumped into another waitress twice. Tight spaces.

Filed by MessyChef at March 22nd, 2008 under American, Restaurant Review