MessyCuisine

Edible Garden

I recently visited the intimate food destination known as The Edible Garden, located on River Road West, in Goochland County. Located near the Henrico line, the Edible Garden prides its diners on locally acquired ingredients. Some have called it a reinvention of Chez Panisse, the famous Berkeley, CA restaurant begun years ago by luminary Alice Waters.

The menu reflected this thinking by listing the origin of many of the ingredients. Let me first start by talking about their food. On special was a “mini crab cake” appetizer.

Unlike many crab cakes which can seem “steamed” rather than fried, these guys were all crispy, and were well liked by the diner. Presentation, well, that could have been improved.

I chose the bison short ribs appetizer, which gained its flavors from the Asian palette: soy, sweetness, and “5 spice” spices permeated the dish. Bison isn’t nearly as fatty as beef; I enjoyed this, but ultimately bison isn’t as rich or moist as beef due to the lower fat content. I would eat this again, however.

The menu at Edible Garden is not huge, but there was something for everyone. That’s until, of course, you’re told that certain things aren’t available. When the wine I wanted “was no longer available because we’re switching out from our winter wines to our spring wines” (note to self: what does that mean?), the waitress was at a loss of words to tell me what wine I might actually pair with the pork chop. She mumbled something, shook her head, and then just fell silent as we both stared at the wine list. More on the Edible Garden’s service, coming up.

We ordered their mahi-mahi entrée and the pork chop entrée (fish pictured below). Mine was good; the chop wasn’t dry; it had good flavorings, and the mashed potatoes were excellent. My wine pairing (of my own choosing) was a Malbec wine, which I later commented, “was made for this dish.” Really. It was that well-paired. Really, the waitstaff should know this.

The fish was less successful. It was “dry,” and while the lentil salad was “good,” the other side (either wheatberries or quinoa) was dry. When you ask “how’s your dish?” and get “dry, dry, dry” at least you’re onto a theme.

We hoped dessert would fix the ills. Their coffee (from Rostov’s in Richmond) was excellent. I am not sure what variety it was, but it was far more complex and palate pleasing than my normal Starbucks. But I snapped a photo of the dessert menu.

I know it’s hard to read, but let’s go over some of these.

We were told that the Apple Cake (which, when we saw it served earlier to a couple, looked divine), was “out.” Some other dessert was “out” too. Now, come on; this menu is for a three-day window, and they’re already out? Out of wine, out of dessert, out of entrées. Who’s planning this?

For a family ordering dessert while we waited for the check, somehow, the apple cake wasn’t out. What was going on?

I opted for the “Chocolate Strawberry Short Cake Torte” (above). It was good, no complaints whatsoever. Yum. My companion ordered the “Coconut Cream Layer Cake,” (below) which again, was “dry, dry, dry.” It was tasty; I had some, but it lacked adequate cream to make it palatable. I am guessing ratios of fat/water need work here; not to mention presentation.

I really appreciate what the Edible Garden is doing: they are providing good quality food in an intimate, country setting, using fresh, locally-procured ingredients. It was fun watching plates “come in” from outside, from their kitchen which is separate from the dining area. The decor was simple but refreshing. And despite the “dry” dishes, the food was tasty. It was not fussy, for sure, and it lacked the sophistication of finer French cuisine, but it was honest and… tasty.

Service, on the other hand, was the killer. The quality of service in a restaurant can make or break your operation. Here, service could take honest food and raise it even higher, creating a really distinctive dining experience. In reviewers speak, it could “add an extra star” to the rating of a restaurant.

For the Edible Garden, it would steal a star away. After being seated by a friendly guy at the door, we had to wait 20 minutes before anyone showed up at the table. No water, no bread; just sitting there, swatting flies with our menus.

When the waitress finally appeared, she quickly just took the drink order. The wine appeared. And then it was “wait, wait, wait.” We arrived in bright sunlight; before we ever got bread, the sun had fully set. Other tables had entire courses brought out, and we hadn’t yet gotten bread.

The wait time here was deplorable. When food arrives, it’s simply “plopped down” on the table with the lightest of a thud, with no announcement of what it was we were being served. Wine glasses were brought with drips of wine all over the glass. One course was served to the wrong diner (two dishes, mixed up).

Their motto may be “celebrating the simple pleasures of food,” but in order to enjoy food, it’s got to be served in a friendly, efficient, and warm manner. Our waitress lacked personality, and she only showed up when she had something to serve.

The wait times weren’t necessarily her fault; other diners who came in too had to wait for long stretches. But other folks there were far more friendly and chatty. Here’s a case in point. After finishing desserts, she returns to ask if we want more coffee. My dining companion says “No, not for me, thanks,” then she walks away. She never once looked at me. And she left the empty dessert plates there. It was another 14 minutes until the bill came, and when it did, it was another 18 until it had been collected.

This was really sad. With minute changes in presentation on the plate, this place could become a real dining destination. But with shoddy service, it will never take-off. I’d only recommend that the owners take a serious look at service and do some training. It could make a huge difference.

So, maybe you’ll fare better. On account of the food, I’d return. It wasn’t perfect, but it had promise. On account of the service, there are plenty of other places where $28 entrées and $10 glasses of wine are served that can also do presentation and good service…

Filed by MessyChef at April 27th, 2008 under Restaurant Review