Archive for June, 2008

Another San Antonio dinner was had at the Hotel Valencia, a curious boutique property that has ill-equipped bathrooms and lackluster service. Yet, the food was tasty.

Above, an oyster fricassee started with a number of mushrooms in a tantalizing broth. It also had fingerling potatoes, which absorbed the luxuriant flavors.

Steak can be boring, but this one, a filet, was sliced in half, and “stuffed” with braised short rib. It was ultimately satisfying. No matter what we ordered, there was joy to be had, although mistakes also found themselves on our plates.

Our strawberry grouper came with undercooked rice. “Dude, this rice is like… raw?!” And a panna cotta of wasabe that was so salty, even our MessyChef who adores the crystals, thought it too strong.

Yes, for one course no knife was provided, and yes, the cocktails were weak. And, yes, all the other tables got bread service, but not us.

The desserts were good: berries with sour cream, cinnamon croissant bread pudding, and a selection of cheeses. We would have enjoyed them more if we hadn’t been so quickly pushed out the door, to finish up as soon as we possibly could.

So, yes, you might enjoy some of the offerings on Citrus’ 3- or 4-course menu. You might get chased out of the restroom by the maid. But with a city with so many opportunities, you may only come to visit Citrus if you stay in their hotel, or close by.

While many items were tasty, and the decor was modern (as was the hotel, whose waterfall was a nice touch in their lobby), the stage is set for success. But with any meal, it all hinges upon good execution of service. Here, they might just cost you a promise of bliss.

(Above, the blackberries and sour cream dessert—one of the more simple yet tasty items on the Citrus menu.)

I’d pass in the future; up against Biga, this place doesn’t compare, despite competitive prices.

“Biga” is supposedly San Antonio’s best fine-dining restaurant, at least that was the buzz. It’s located in the “International Center” off St. Anne and near the Riverwalk. A modern, classy interior is casual despite the fine cuisine. From the signature cocktails, to the breads, to the coffee, there is detail afforded to the tastes and smells of each item that makes it to the table. And attention to detail paid-off with a very satisfying meal.

Duck Rilette with Cumberland Sauce

Yet, there were a few wrinkles. They forgot my drink order. I left over-stuffed. One side-dish was bland. But instead of dwelling upon the mistakes, let me emphasize the server felt authentic, the food was impeccable, and the flavor combinations inviting and novel.

Pork with Sauerkraut and Apple-Riesling Sauce and Maple Cream

I’d recommend Biga to other diners in the San Antonio area. Just watch what you order: there are so many good things, you might think they’re all tasting portions. Not so: the entrée sizes are significant. One diner was told at another table: “The portions are Texas sized, we want you to feel you’re getting your money’s worth.”

4-spiced Duck with Shiitakes

I wanted the caprese style salad, but in a full-course orientation. So, I came up with this recipe.

Tomato-basil feta with garlic and EVOO decorated the bread, while balsamic vinegar, EVOO, basil, and salt and pepper dressed carrots, roasted red pepper, grape tomatoes, and fresh mozzarella cheese.

This was simple to make, and quite delicious to savor.

Some time ago, I enjoyed the so-called L’Explorateur cheese at Chef Cantu’s restaurant Moto in Chicago. I don’t remember the details, but I thought perhaps, it included white chocolate.

So, for my dessert, I combined a half a wheel of Explorateur cheese with half a bar of good white chocolate.

I served that mixture opposite strawberries.

Sublime!