Clio
Clio is located in Boston, Massachusetts.
I had high expectations for Clio, being touted as one of the few places in Boston to enjoy the fruits of molecular gastronomy. While tenets of this cooking philosophy were on the menu, the majority of offerings were fresh takes on otherwise French or continental cooking.
I had their appetizer of foie gras, a nice sized lump served with many accoutrements, including honeycomb. Having been salted, the dish was sublime: the richness was offset by the sweet and the salty. A cinnamon component took the dish in an usual direction, but things were off to a good start.
The breads, which never stop arriving, were epi-style rolls and were delicious. We had to ask for more butter.
The entrée seemed experimental (as in, does all of this go together), but nevertheless, was also delicious: a cut of rare hanger steak and beef short rib. Again, foams were a garnish on the plate. I enjoyed the short rib far more than the other cut, but having two to compare both for texture and flavor was nice. Sweet components in the entrée played well with a pinot noir, which I shared with my companion. He opted for the licorice-smoked duck, which he reported was “very good.”
Desserts consisted of a cheese plate (above, at angle) and a deconstructed apple goat cheese dolche de leche complete with sour apple sorbet. Both desserts were appropriately sized. You should not fear ordering dessert at Clio because you’ll be stuffed: they’re nice (small) sizes.
Clio was commanding 5-star reviews from some folks online, yet it seemed the clear winner were its cocktails which I missed. (Upon returning home, I was surprised to read about one of their unusual cocktails in my cooking magazine.) Some folks were less enthusiastic, either because of service or sub-par food for the price.
Clio is expensive. Very expensive. More expensive than its worth, however. I’ve had my share of pricy meals, but never one this good yet overinflated in price. The cheapest wine to my memory on the list was $60, and for “mini desserts” should you be paying in the $teens?
The other thing that started things off funny was our wait for the table. They confirmed reservations online and over the phone to ensure I’d be there at the agreed-upon time, but we had a 15 minute wait for our table. We were repeated requested to sit at the bar. Then, being set in a hotel, to use the restroom, you have to walk through their adjacent sushi bar, squeeze past a table, then into the lobby, down stairs, and then you’ll find the toilets.
This doesn’t mean Clio can’t serve the finest food. Their food was darn good, but not among the very best I’ve had. Where things lost luster was when the check came: ouch. At those prices, the bathroom should be more convenient, the hostesses less pushy about where to wait, and the amuse bouches should appear.
Visit Clio when someone else is treating you; you’ll do fine.
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