Archive for May 9th, 2009

Acacia Midtown is located at 2601 Cary Street in Richmond, just east of Carytown.

Inside you will find an inspired menu, minimalist decor, delicious eats, and a dining atmosphere that’s too loud. While some folks like the urban atmosphere (roaring noise from talking and pulsing house music), I’d have liked the whole Acacia experience better with a few decibels less noise. But let’s move on to the food.

The asparagus, shiitake, and duck confit salad was interesting and creative. It forced these separate ingredients together in perhaps “new ways.” Despite the oddness, the dish was cohesive and fit. The dots of sauce were made from Chinese hoisin sauce, which tied to the mushrooms and duck. The asparagus took on a new flavor profile and my appetite was duly piqued.

The appetizer of beef tongue was good, if not a tad on the sour side. I didn’t eat it, but my companion tells me it was a winner.

The grouper was overcooked by just 5 seconds, but it was still a wonderful base for the flavorful sauce scented with sour notes and applewood smoked-bacon. The broccolini was sweet, not bitter, and the combination of two onions was sweet and intense. I paired this with pinot noir, but felt the particular one offered was too acidic for this dish. Pair with something with enough requisite sweetness.

The dessert of pine nut sponge cake with strawberry sorbet was “interesting.” The flavor combinations were spot-on, but ultimately the dessert felt a little flat. Their French press service of coffee was delicious.

Acacia is likely a place you’ll want to visit. I might suggest a weekday night to avoid the overwhelming volume level, or else plan to sit closely to the ones you want to hear. I’m never a fan of curved half-bowl plates, as the utensils you sit down have a nasty habit of falling into the dish, their handles becoming sticky with sauce. Food service was quick for a busy night. It was good service, but lacked the polish of world-class service. When we arrived around 7:30, the older crowd was on the way out, and by the time we left at 9:45, the younger crowd had replaced them.

A good first visit to Acacia’s new home in Richmond, VA.

Would you like a very most excellent chocolate chip cookie?

(The only problem is, you’re going to have to wait a bit…)

Take your favorite recipe, and make a few adjustments.

• Instead of using room-temperature butter, melt your butter to a brown stage. Not burnt, but to the point you’d take it for a “Sage and brown butter sauce.”
• Use good chocolate. That’s a given. I used dark chocolate.
• Take your ratio of granulated to brown sugar, and tip it in favor of the brown. Don’t use light brown; use dark brown sugar.
• Add a shot of espresso.
• Wait. Don’t bake the cookies right away. Wait 24-36 hours before you use this dough. It will make all the difference.

This is the type of treatment that will make the crispy on the edge, chewy-in-the-center style chocolate chip cookie. They may just become the world’s best.