May9

Acacia Midtown

Restaurant Sign

Acacia Midtown is located at 2601 Cary Street in Richmond, just east of Carytown.

Restaurant Interior

Inside you will find an inspired menu, minimalist decor, delicious eats, and a dining atmosphere that’s too loud. While some folks like the urban atmosphere (roaring noise from talking and pulsing house music), I’d have liked the whole Acacia experience better with a few decibels less noise. But let’s move on to the food.

Asparagus, Mushroom, Duck Confit Salad

The asparagus, shiitake, and duck confit salad was interesting and creative. It forced these separate ingredients together in perhaps “new ways.” Despite the oddness, the dish was cohesive and fit. The dots of sauce were made from Chinese hoisin sauce, which tied to the mushrooms and duck. The asparagus took on a new flavor profile and my appetite was duly piqued.

Beef Tongue Appetizer

The appetizer of beef tongue was good, if not a tad on the sour side. I didn’t eat it, but my companion tells me it was a winner.

Grouper

The grouper was overcooked by just 5 seconds, but it was still a wonderful base for the flavorful sauce scented with sour notes and applewood smoked-bacon. The broccolini was sweet, not bitter, and the combination of two onions was sweet and intense. I paired this with pinot noir, but felt the particular one offered was too acidic for this dish. Pair with something with enough requisite sweetness.

The dessert of pine nut sponge cake with strawberry sorbet was “interesting.” The flavor combinations were spot-on, but ultimately the dessert felt a little flat. Their French press service of coffee was delicious.

Acacia is likely a place you’ll want to visit. I might suggest a weekday night to avoid the overwhelming volume level, or else plan to sit closely to the ones you want to hear. I’m never a fan of curved half-bowl plates, as the utensils you sit down have a nasty habit of falling into the dish, their handles becoming sticky with sauce. Food service was quick for a busy night. It was good service, but lacked the polish of world-class service. When we arrived around 7:30, the older crowd was on the way out, and by the time we left at 9:45, the younger crowd had replaced them.

A good first visit to Acacia’s new home in Richmond, VA.


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