There’s a giant old bank in Philadelphia known previously as the Girard Bank (you can see it here, circa the 1930s) that is capped with a giant dome. Inside, today, the dome is the hallmark of the Ritz Carlton hotel, with a posh lobby, and adjacent to the left, the restaurant 10 Arts by Eric Ripert. Mr. Ripert is more famous for his New York restaurant featuring seafood, Le Bernadin. I’ve seen the outside of both places, and the one in Philly wins.

I chose to dine here during my recent trip in part because its main chef, Jennifer Carroll, is a contestant on this season’s show, Top Chef. It was confirmed to us that she was “cooking in the kitchen” while we were there.

We both chose three course menus.

For me:

• Pork and Beans (pork belly),
• White bass in a cream sauce
• Fig Dessert

For my adventurous companion:

• Octopus with Eggplant,
• Bouillabaisse,
• Beignets with Sauce

My appetizer was delicious: the pork simply melted under the pressure of my knife and the broth was delicious. The white fish was cooked to perfection, in a creamy light sauce that was fresh. I only wished it had more vegetables than the very special chantarelle mushrooms.

The dessert was the only disappointment. The figs lacked presence and flavor on the plate. The chocolate disk below was far more important (in size and flavor).

The octopus was cooked well, parts of it charred from its time on the grill. Both this and the crispy eggplant had a nice lemon flavor.

The bouillabaisse came with all sorts of seafood, including clams, mussels, and head-on shrimp. It’s saffron broth was just right.

The star of the evening was the waitress-described “sensation”: fried cinnamon sugar beignets with a salted caramel/chocolate sauce. These little guys melted in your mouth, and the sweet/chocolate/salt flavored sauce was scrumptious.

I am not sure how I felt about dining so close to the lobby, but it was a magical place with pink lights, a very high ceiling, and pulsing electronica. It didn’t feel like a Ritz, but someplace magical yet modern.

We wish the best to Chef Carroll in her campaign on Top Chef.

This entry was posted on Monday, September 7th, 2009 at 8:16 pm and is filed under French, Restaurant Review. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can skip to the end and leave a response. Pinging is currently not allowed.