Archive for October 25th, 2009

Paris, October, 2009

Menu Decouverte

• L’Amuse Bouche
• Le Caviar
• Le Crabe (softshell en tempura)
• Le Foie Gras aux haricots cocoverjutés
• L’Œuf cocotte et sa crème l’égère de girolles
• La Sole en tronçon
• L’ joue du Bœuf à la bourguignonne
• El Andalous (fraises de saison)
• La perle du Chou (chocolade)

I had many good things to eat when traveling recently to Paris, including a “tasting menu” at one of chef Joël Robuchon’s restaurants, his famous Atelier. Everyone with a reservation is served just minutes after 6:30 PM, and upon entering, are issued to your counter seats. With a party of four, we got a corner, two of us on both sides, which seemed an ideal vantage point for enjoying the meal and viewing not only the workspace but also some of the “audience” Additional seating is available along the wall, but I would not have valued sitting against the wall to eat my meal. I can’t imagine who would.

The menu gave us a choice of entrées. You can see I chose the beef, but others had the choice between foie gras-stuffed quail and lamb (with la fleur de thym). This entrée was perhaps the most successful dish, executed perfectly between dreamy mashed potatoes, the most cute and small mushrooms, and a rich beef cheek amply surrounded by a rich and thick, glistening red ruby, wine sauce. It got straight to the point: let’s enjoy this. Gone were the rustic connotations often associated with this beef stew.

The foie gras course was not my favorite: it was served over a collection of beans and while delicious, it lacked the sophistication that a little sweetness, when paired with foie gras, often has in such a dish. The crab was superb (better than Michel Richard’s version at Citronelle), and my favorite was the caviar dish. A mushroomy drink as the amuse was also outstanding.

Most odd on the dish was the egg course, served in a martini glass, everything foamy, liquidy, and infused with mushroom. There was good parts about it (flavor), but the texture was not my thing.

The fish was bland.

The “Andalous,” a light strawberry dessert, was outstanding. Like the entrée, it was a real winner in simple sophistication. Superb flavor with hints of tomato, basil, and lime tequila.

Not the most delicious, but the most memorable, was the final course: a modern take on the profiterole, covered in a dome of chocolate. Upon being served this dish, hot chocolate sauce was poured over the dome, making it disappear before our eyes. It was magic, and it was quite entertaining. Coffee served with dessert was incredible. Smooth, dark, and ever sweet.

My 2-star meal at Joël Robuchon’s was delicious. I can’t say it was the best meal I’d eaten. Most disappointing was the level of service: while efficient and capable (the waiters match your preferred language), in the end it lacked the warmth I’ve experienced at other places. Nevertheless, I’d recommend this place for its different take on dining by transforming the kitchen into a little scene of theatre. Incidentally, you’ll find Robuchon’s Ateliers in different cities as well.