Apple Pie, Jeffery’s Way
Last night I finished reading The Man Who Ate Everything by Jeffery Steingarten (buying through this link puts a nickel in my tipjar). A great read, even if it is a few years old.
The end of the book is a column about making the best pies. Jeffery is interested in making a better pie for friend and author Marion Cunningham. In the end, he can’t do it, and she shows him how it’s done. He works after their encounter and perfects a recipe.
I made that recipe tonight.
I had mixed results. First, I used one less Apple than Jeffery called for. And, well, I didn’t follow all his directions to a “t,” so he might be able to blame me for it not all coming out perfectly.
The crust, however, the real point behind the article, came out great. It really is a winner crust. Here’s where I need improvement:
a) I used a lattice top, which he does not discuss. This was fine, and might have helped my juicy apple problem. b) I had juicy apples in the pie. Despite using flour, I still had too much juice. Jeffery recommends adding the sugar and salt at the last minute to keep the apples from forming juice. I have a feeling they’d do this anyhow, but next time, I’ll do it a la minute. c) My “topping” burned. He suggested milk with a sprinkle of sugar. I used left over “sugar” water from the apples, mixed with cream. It burned. He suggests starting out at 450 degrees. I think that’s too hot. d) The apples are firm, but some never got “mushy,” despite using a variety where some should have gotten softer. Either cut them all thinner, or else cook it longer.
So, I like his recipe.
a) make sure your apples are dry before mixing them with sugar and vanilla. b) cut them thinner; he suggests 1/16ths, I would go to 32nds, or use a mandolin and do it from top to bottom. c) You might only be able to fit 3 lbs of apples, not 3.5. Maybe 3.25 would be ideal. d) Don’t bake it at 450 to start. Start at 400, then go to 350 for the long-haul after 23-25 minutes. e) Maybe follow his advice on the coating/wash. Egg wash never burned. f) The crust was made with butter and Crisco. I liked this crust a lot. But—I tried to use lard and could not find any at the store. I would have liked to try a lard/butter mixture.
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