Archive for January, 2010

It wasn’t that long ago that I visited the Foggy Ridge Cidery in southwest Virginia.

Their cider went superbly with several dishes I made recently, one a roasted chicken, and another, an apple and sauerkraut pork loin. Beyond wine made from grapes, their cider has an alluring, almost beguiling aroma that keeps your nose in the glass, which is a great thing. The complexity on the nose translates to refreshment on the palate, and just like a good wine, the cider can accent various flavors in your food.

Last night I finished reading The Man Who Ate Everything by Jeffery Steingarten (buying through this link puts a nickel in my tipjar). A great read, even if it is a few years old.

The end of the book is a column about making the best pies. Jeffery is interested in making a better pie for friend and author Marion Cunningham. In the end, he can’t do it, and she shows him how it’s done. He works after their encounter and perfects a recipe.

I made that recipe tonight.

I had mixed results. First, I used one less Apple than Jeffery called for. And, well, I didn’t follow all his directions to a “t,” so he might be able to blame me for it not all coming out perfectly.

The crust, however, the real point behind the article, came out great. It really is a winner crust. Here’s where I need improvement:

a) I used a lattice top, which he does not discuss. This was fine, and might have helped my juicy apple problem. b) I had juicy apples in the pie. Despite using flour, I still had too much juice. Jeffery recommends adding the sugar and salt at the last minute to keep the apples from forming juice. I have a feeling they’d do this anyhow, but next time, I’ll do it a la minute. c) My “topping” burned. He suggested milk with a sprinkle of sugar. I used left over “sugar” water from the apples, mixed with cream. It burned. He suggests starting out at 450 degrees. I think that’s too hot. d) The apples are firm, but some never got “mushy,” despite using a variety where some should have gotten softer. Either cut them all thinner, or else cook it longer.

So, I like his recipe.

a) make sure your apples are dry before mixing them with sugar and vanilla. b) cut them thinner; he suggests 1/16ths, I would go to 32nds, or use a mandolin and do it from top to bottom. c) You might only be able to fit 3 lbs of apples, not 3.5. Maybe 3.25 would be ideal. d) Don’t bake it at 450 to start. Start at 400, then go to 350 for the long-haul after 23-25 minutes. e) Maybe follow his advice on the coating/wash. Egg wash never burned. f) The crust was made with butter and Crisco. I liked this crust a lot. But—I tried to use lard and could not find any at the store. I would have liked to try a lard/butter mixture.

We had a great time celebrating the new year in a low-key way with our friends. I made dinner.

Butternut Squash Soup

This soup starts with the crisping of bacon, which is then reserved to garnish at the end. Onions and garlic with spices sweat it out in bacon fat before adding vegetable broth. To that, roasted butternut squash. The squash roasted at 400 degrees for about 35-40 minutes. The soup was then blended. It reduced somewhat before service, where I topped it with tangy crème fraîche. The flavor profile was bolstered with maple syrup and cider vinegar, added during the onion/garlic stage.

Simple Roast Chicken

I could only find fresh but small birds at the market. These are ideal for 2 people, but for four, we bolstered the chicken with two extra-large leg and thigh pieces.

I based my method on that of chef Thomas Keller, using a high heat, simple roast at 450 degrees for an hour. It probably could have gone for 1:15, all be told. I put the legs in later at around 40 minutes total time. I seasoned the bird with salt, pepper, and I couldn’t help use a little butter (Keller suggests skipping butter and aromatics). I also stuffed the cavity (not fully) with small wedges of lemon.

The chicken was pronounced “the best chicken I have ever had!” by diners. It was moist and flavorful. The trick is preparing a sauce for eating after the roasting process.

I melted a stick of butter, and added whole garlic and fresh poultry herbs (sage, rosemary, and thyme). To this, add Dijon-style mustard, and serve over the chicken pieces. Absolutely simple and most fabulous. We’ll be doing this again soon.

Brussels Sprouts with Mushrooms and Bacon

I’ve made this one before, but each time I add a twist. This time I charred the sprouts in butter under the broiler before adding the mushroom and bacon mixture. Use the most flavorful bacon you can find. I added a boxed mushroom broth to the casserole before roasting with the chicken. After the dish comes out, garnish with fried shallots or onions.

Chocolate Soufflée with Sauce Satsuma Anglaise

Our friends really like my chocolate souflées, made with Valrhona chocolate (I mix both dark and milk chocolate types). To sauce these babies, I made an authentic satsuma-flavored custard sauce using the juice and zest from a Japanese-style eating orange.

Happy new year to everyone, and happy eating!