The last time I was here, it was my first time at eating soup-y dumplings. I was spoiled. Some consider these the best.

I next had them in Hong Kong, filled with “hairy crab meat,” and while they were clean-tasting and good, I still longed for the version at Joe’s.

We had to wait over an hour outside to get in. You get a number, then wait to be called. The numbers started in the high 40s, and we were number 201. Was it worth the wait for Joe’s?

If you don’t want to try their other dishes, I recommend 3 baskets of dumplings for 2 hungry persons. We were pushing it hard with 4; and having eaten one each of the crab and pork varieties, I’d wager you get 1 of the crab and 2 of the pork. Tea is nice, but I really liked a nice cold soda with this. Helped cut the “fat.”

Eating these is a challenge to westerners; a gelatin “soup” is mixed in with the meat. You don’t want to pierce the wrapper; instead, use the tongs to place the dumpling in a soup spoon that you’ve already blessed with some of their ginger sauce. Place the dumpling on the side; let part of it hang off. Bite into this, and get ready, to suck in the soup into your mouth. This is both adventuresome and potentially painful if you’re not ready—at the start these things are hot.

But the richness of that broth and the meat inside, the ginger sauce, well, yes, it was worth it. These are divine little gifts, each one worth space in our lives to savor.

Unfortunately, you’re seated with strangers, the room in the restaurant was all taken up with the bustle of customers, and it’s not a haven for relaxing.

But the dumplings are exquisite.

After Hong Kong I’ve ordered them many times, including in San Francisco’s Chinatown. Maybe I have more of the world to see; nothing yet has beat Joe’s for me.

I might add that we got a few broken this time; I’d almost prefer a slightly safer (and thicker) wrapper. But the flavor was spot-on delicious.

Located on Pell Street in Chinatown.

You’ll also find they have another (original) location in Flushing, midtown NYC, and now a budding franchise in Japan.

The entrance is not grand; I imagine on a warm summer night they open the garage door opposite the one you pull open on the right.

The menu is an eclectic mix of a lot of small plates with some other larger entrées. Most folks sit at a bar; you can also sit at tables with a larger party. We walked in and just got a seat; it soon became crowded with a few folks needing to wait before being seated.

If readers remember my trip to Montréal, I had the best oysters at Joe’s Beef, and these weren’t bad either at Momofuku.

Sweet apple teased the senses, a new take on a mignonette sauce.

Fruit came to the scene again in my favorite dish, featuring pear with uni (fresh sea urchin).

Foie gras of the sea, I say.

Since I hail from Virginia these days, we also ordered some Edward’s ham. It was really salty (like I didn’t know), and I wished they had a “Surryano” style ham instead of this salty version. You can see it in the background in this close-up of the famous pork buns.

Those buns were good; the sauce sweet, the texture of the “bread” sublime.

In theory I should have liked this next dish, but I have to say it was not a good by itself. Shared with a bigger group, I’d want a taste. Having to eat a lot of it myself, was well, painful.

That’s apple kimchi. I like cabbage kimchi. At first I didn’t mind this, but wow, the spice! The addition of bacon was one part I liked. Bacon, apple, spice. I get the combination. But… in small doses.

Our last dish was spicy sausage with rice balls and some oniony stuff on top (I sadly don’t recall what it was, precisely). This dish made the kimchi taste light on spice. When they say the stuff is spicy, they are not kidding you.

Hot red thai chilies were in the sauce; the sausage, mostly at the bottom, was good; but the main component of spice were those chills, the sauce rich in spicy oil. The rice balls were nice texturally, but they soaked up the spice. I can still “feel” the spice of this dish just thinking about it. Good, but best consumed in small doses via sharing.

I enjoyed the experience. This was not fine dining; it was bar seated dining, which I enjoyed. You don’t get to see the cooking behind the bar (boo!), but they do have a glass wall into the kitchen at the opposite end. They use wood paneling in the dining room which I liked, taken from what I imagine was engineered for the floor and stuck it on the wall.

A great place to go with friends and explore some exotic flavor combinations!

We ate well; the menu was:

• Hamachi, marcona almond, ginger, oolong tea broth
• Everything bagel ice cream, smoked salmon threads, crispy cream cheese
• Foie-lafel sandwich
• Poached egg in the shell; pumpernickel, caesar dressing with lily
• Sweet shrimps, miso noodles, with bitter chicory and yuzu
• Monkfish, smoked barley, beet-mustard, nori
• Qual rounds, chartreuse yogurt, turnip and nutmeg
• Marbled Beef with “red beans and rice”, chayote squash
• Bourbon, cranberry, gingerbread and walnut
• Milk chocolate, black bean, plantain, soy with peanut

The bagel was playful; art since it was really ice cream. We loved the pickled “salmon” on the side.

The little falafel balls were really chickpea-crusted foie gras balls! “Yummo!” I heard Rachel Ray yell from across town (okay, no I didn’t, but I pictured it all, really vividly in my head!). The balls would have been fine on their own, too, with a dipping sauce. At this point in the meal, things were tasty and clean. Each element was focused towards a “taste” for the dish.

The egg was real; but the shell was not. The yolk was runny; the caesar dressing on the plate was so delicious you wanted a small thimble to drink from.

The monkfish with beets was a favorite of many diners that evening, the entire ensemble together forming a nice heavy emulsion in the mouth. Again - very focused flavor profiles. Because of the beets and their rich sweetness, this could have gone with a red wine.

Quail scares me, if it’s presented with those little cute bones. Here, Dufresne offers quail breaded and without the bones (yes!). I liked the little fried turnips and the yogurt was a good match; the perfume of the nutmeg was a little heavy.

No matter what, at around this time you begin to want to slow down. The sizes at wd~50 are really good, but… now we’re getting serious. I am not a fan of lamb, so they thankfully substituted some beef here. It was delicious on its own; I am not sure all the rest of the “beans” were my favorite. A little of that sauce and some crunchy salt on the beef would have been most perfect.

Next? “An intermezzo” course, a sorbet filled with… a surprise! Cranberry, like a mooch all of ice cream.

That red shock of color was so awesome to find:

Our final course was a rich one, a good finish to an evolving, almost Zen-inspired meal.

The little rice puffs were interesting texturally, and chocolate, plantain (banana), and peanut flavors go well together, right?

Nice friendly service, with excited diners all around. Folks were digging the dishes as they came out, and they all looked consistent.

So, wd~50, if you couldn’t tell, is a place to find your molecular gastronomy groove. Each place I visit that does this post modern take on cuisine does it differently, which is a good thing. My journey started out at Cantu’s restaurant in Chicago: moto. Cantu’s take is far more whimsical. His idea of fine dining is total tongue-in-cheek, if not table-inspired laughter. Wd-50 was far more relaxed, and far more focused, and not as “out there” in terms of the flavors of what we could detect of technique. John Shields here in Virginia is still different from them both; from his Alinea heritage, I think maybe he’s the better of the three chefs I’m comparing; his combinations are more classically inspired, say, like Dufresne’s; but the flavor combinations are more exotic, more busy, but less about technique.

I enjoyed my meal at wd~50, and I’m glad I got to visit. But I’d go to Chilhowie again for the fourth time, and then to moto (and certainly Alinea) before I’d return.

We tried the mussels in a simple preparation with a wine and Pernod-based broth. Traditional. Delicious.

The heirloom tomato and feta salad was delicious and light; the only thing I didn’t care for were the hand-placed herbs on top.

My partner in most things wasn’t happy about having to open the fish and “fish around” for the meat amid bones in this whole fish preparation. Yet, by the end, he was very happy. Delicious, moist, and flesh that was easily acquired.

I went for the chicken with Parisian-style gnocchi (the kind you squeeze out of a bag into boiling water). If they can’t do chicken right, then… forgetabbouit.

It was delicious. Yum! Good skin, good flavor, and again, nice light cuisine. I love my chicken at home with butter. This lacked the fat but still managed to satisfy. (Not that I will be giving up my Thomas Keller version with butter.)

Since we drove all the way to C’Ville, we had dessert. Profiteroles and a panna cotta.

Having tried both, the panna cotta was the better dessert. The choux-paste shells tasted… maybe a tad stale. The panna cotta was light and giggly, the way it ought to be, with accents of fruit, including an orange foamy sauce.

The restaurant is in a converted service garage. I liked it. I’d be back soon if I lived in C’Ville. Since I don’t, I hope I find myself there again soon.

The evening I visited they featured a tasting menu:

• Himachi with Rhubarb and Sea Beans
• Strawberry Gazpacho
• Halibut with Morels
• Foie Gras with Heirloom Tomatoes
• A Berry Soda with Cinnamon
• Lamb
• Taleggio Cheese, served warm with Jamón Serrano
• Sacher Torte

Wow! If I had to choose the weakest dish, it would have been the dessert… it was good, but the other dishes were on a whole other level higher… and one of my favorites was the first (pictured left, above), the most clean tasting fish, with briny sea beans, watermelon skin that had been pickled, plus soft rhubarb. Absolutely delicious and fresh. I could have eaten a bowl of that, piled high.

That’s how the next dish read, too, a berry-infused gazpacho with all kinds of interesting things to throw into your bowl, including flowers. “Yummo!” we might hear from Rachel Ray. The MC also said Yummo!

Mushrooms are a special treat for me, and this menu featured both morels with a butter-poached halibut, but also porcini later on with the lamb. Foie is always a hit, no? Luxurious, yes, but also so well-paired with the flavors. Each course seemed an ideal size. Just enough to whet the appetite for more, then soon newer, if not richer flavors, were to follow.

The cheese was an extra course, and they will let you split it to share with a dining partner. This is wise, both because you do start to get full around dessert time, and plus, you ought to taste their quality ham and warm cheese combination. Taleggio isn’t Spanish, but it is a favorite stinky (Italian) cheese of mine. Having it served warm and crispy on the outside was a real treat.

Lacroix does offer in-kitchen table dining for those who just want to turn it up a notch on the foodie dial.

The atmosphere was more formal than I had imagined, but since it’s located in a hotel, not all guests were formally dressed.

This meal was offered at a very competitive price, considering the quality of flavors and ingredients. Warmly recommended.

The tapas concept works well with many different cuisines, including this primarily Mediterranean-style menu. Many of the flavors were new to me. In fact, several pickled vegetables and exotic spices came to the table. None were too piquant or strong in flavor, but each was savory enough to contribute to a new flavor palette that I found both refreshing and inviting.

The dish pictured above features some of flavorful condiments, and the featured dish was a combination beef/lamb meatball. Each of our choices from an populated list of dishes was delicious, from cheese, to the buttery hummus, and the meat dishes like those meatballs.

Almost everything came with a touch of flavor on the side, like preserved lemon, which made each tapas the more deep.

Service was very kind, so much so our waiter almost every time left the table walking backwards, saying “Thank you kindly…” I remember it so, that I wrote it down in my notes from the trip.

If you’re a fan of small plate meals, with variety and out of the ordinary flavors, I couldn’t recommend Zahav more.

We’ve yet to see Chef Richard there in the kitchen, but this was a second trip; our first is quite memorable and well-regarded. This time around, there were some signature repeats, and many new touches.

We opted for the tasting menu, called Le Promenade Gourmande, since we sat down at 6 PM. We had the time.

• Amuse of seafood, oyster shooter and salmon tartare
• Split Pea Soup, Coteccino
• Virtual Calamari Risotto with Lobster and Crab
• Halibut in Lobster Broth
• Lobster Burger with Chips fried in Clarified Butter
• Lamb chop, in jalapeño-cumin sauce
• Short Rib, braised 60 hours
• Cheese course with Shiraz
• Egg-ceptional Lemon Meringue
• Pear Vacherin with Muscat de Beaumes de Venise 2007
• Petit Fours

The amuse arrived at the table, lit dramatically with a special plate embedded with LEDs. My beloved companion thought it was tacky, I liked it. This was an outstanding dish, the shooter included a cucumber water that was bright green and ever refreshing.

The pea soup had thin slices of an Italian pork sausage, and it perfumed the dish. Salty and scrumptious.

The Calamari risotto reminded me of the dish done at Town House in Chilhowie, but this was so much better. Other seafood added texture, and the “sauce” that made up the risotto was deeper in flavor.

The halibut was disappointing; the sauce was to die for, but the fish, as the first time, comes across a little too dry. At this point, the portions are getting larger, and in retrospect, I could have skipped this course. But give me that sauce in a thermos anytime.

The lamb was so succulent, so well-cooked. The sauce was intriguing. Again, the portion was generous. Getting… full.

The short rib is cooked sous vide for anywhere between 40-70 hours (each time, you’ll hear different lengths, I think it depends on the day). This is a delicious piece of meat.

The cheese course was nice, but again, with a full stomach, I could have saved this for another day. Their bleu was the star, reminiscent of chocolate!

The star dessert was the lemon meringue which was stuffed into a white-chocolate shell, to look like an egg. Whimsical, delicious. White chocolate and lemon curd = a good match!

The pear was another meringue creation, this time dried out, and painted with food dye powders. It was really beautiful, and I loved cracking the shell to see what was inside. This was visually stunning.

Petits fours = eh, I could have skipped this. I was over-stuffed.

Kathryn Morgan did an excellent job with wine pairings, although nothing compared to the Turley Zinfandel they served the last time I was there. The most outstanding was the 2004 Margaux, from Chateau Rauzan-Gassies.

Both times we’ve compared this to The French Laundry. Keller’s restaurant beats Citronelle on service, I think, which isn’t to say we weren’t served well at Citronelle. But everything at the FL had less personality, I have to say. The food was outstanding, but it lacked rough edges or punches. The flavors offered from Chef Deshaies menu at Citronelle simply seemed amplified. Flavors are more robust, more extrovert.

And the FL doesn’t offer wine pairings.

This is serious eating with serious prices - but for a special occasion, it’s still in top form, I think. Take two courses out (the halibut and cheese), and package to-go those little sweet snacks at the end, and I think you’d shore up a long promenade into even more perfect meal.

If sitting for 3.5 hours through 10 courses seems like torture, the other entrées which come in larger portions looked very appetizing.

Citronelle is located in the basement of the Latham Hotel in Georgetown, at 3000 M Street NW. Recommended!

I understand this space used to be an Asian-themed restaurant, but what it is now is hard to discern. It was a bright, inviting place, and everyone who cared for us was kind and attentive.

But I can’t say I’d ever say it was time to go back.

Complaints about the former place included small portion sizes and bad service. We experienced nice people, but the service was entirely too slow. Now, I’m all for conversation and time to relax from life’s hectic pace and all of that. But this isn’t called the “Zen Lounge.” The odd name of this place indicates strong wind. Fast service would be appropriate.

I tried some of their cooked oysters, and each was delicious. Presentation was nice, too.

Then we waited. Sure, they kept bringing these small biscuits and small corn cakes with butter, but… where was the food??

When my dish finally came, baked eggs with onions, chorizo sausage, and cheese, it was delicious. But it was overcooked. 4 slices of toast came with the two baked eggs and I know they’re used to “soup up the sauce of the egg yolks.” There were hardly any runny yolks; the eggs had been too-well cooked.

The chicken sausage sandwich came on a cute bun, but the side salad was small. And that was it. A little tiny sandwich, which ultimately was too salty.

My companion asked for a bottle of Coke, after seeing another customer order one. They came back to us with a brown bag. “Here sir, is your bottle.” He looked inside the bag… inside, an empty glass bottle of coke.

“What is this?”

“A bottle of Coke.”

“There’s nothing to drink?”

“Oh, did you want a coke to drink?”

“Sorta. If it’s not too much trouble?”

This place had at least 4 different staff walking around and checking on the dining room. Yet, how many folks were making the food? You were paying MO prices, for sure, and with small portions, confused service, and a long wait on mid-day Saturday, I can’t say I understand the urge to return.

On the other hand, Cityzen has never disappointed. The service is congenial, but it’s also attentive, and the food comes at a very reasonable pace. Sadly, I can’t recommend Sou’Wester based on my one visit.

Go into a supermarket today (okay, maybe an upscale one), and you’re likely to find a variety of different types of frozen treats. Note, I’m not talking flavors, but just styles.

• Ice Milk
• Ice Cream
• Gelato
• Sorbet
• Frozen Yogurt
• Sherbet

And who knows - there are also now variations with goat milk, soy, organic this and that, whipped varieties, etc. Which just goes to show - at least in the U.S. - ice cream is a big deal.

So someone asked me: “Why is it now, on your second trip to Paris, did you have to go back for the ice cream?”

Yes, on a cold, November morning, I got a triple-scoop of ice cream from Berthillion, and ate it happily with the wind in my hair. I had a hat on, so the wind didn’t bother me in the least. But I did return home with a nasty cold.

First, you should understand, many books on Paris tell you about this place, so my first trip, I had to try it. I mean, Ina Garten raved about it, and I generally trust her taste.

Second, the place is kind of cute. It’s located on the Île-Saint-Louis, the smaller of the two islands in the center of Paris on the River Seine. In fact, it’s positioned about dab-center in the island! It’s closed in August, when it’s hot, and yes, it’s open in the morning on cloudy, cold November mornings. And no lines!

I read that Italian ice cream may beat this out, but having not yet traveled to Italy, I can only speak for this stuff versus all those choices I mentioned above. First, texture is first rate. It’s a firm ice cream, but not necessarily as firm as the stuff in some of those small pints we have. It’s also extremely creamy and rich. Delicious stuff. But the real win is the complexity and weight of flavor. This is serious ice cream, and my favorite non-fruit flavor is the salted caramel. “Yum-O!,” I think I dreamt Rachel Ray yelling. (No, I didn’t really have a dream about Ms. Ray eating this ice cream, but you can sort of hear that voice of hers saying “Yum-O!” whenever you choose to write it out on the computer.)

Their ice cream can be purchased at a few satellite locations, and in select cafés. But it’s not available here, and I love that it’s still a family business. And yes, that ice cream was so good, should I get the opportunity to return, I’ll go for more. Just remember - there’s nothing called Berthillion in your grocer’s freezer here in the U. S.

Please note - two trips - one each per trip to Paris - really isn’t that bad. I’ve yet to buy my own ice cream machine (I’m looking for a self-freezing model the day I get a bigger kitchen that can accommodate it), so I really don’t get to try my hand at creative ice cream making. But I know this recipe might be the first I try.

One of the neatest looking things to eat is a Parisian macaron, a cookie, if you will, but one made of two lids made of egg and almond, and a sweet filling. I find them adorable to eat, and when I went to Paris in 2009, I tried some from Laudurée. They were good, but not necessarily outstanding. (My first sample came from Laudurée in Harrod’s, in London.)

This time around, we visited the store of the guy currently best known for his pastries: Pierre Hermé.

Just look at the concotions! Don’t you want to sample each one?

And there they are, down the line a bit, the macarons! We visited the store in the 6th, just across the street from the St. Suplice church.

As you can likely make out from the signs, Hermé is into some interesting flavor combinations, each one scrumptious.

I’m not sure how you’re really supposed to eat these - but I took the box back to my hotel and enjoyed them in solitude. Each one bursts with flavor, each a delicate sweet sandwich. Chocolate, tea, passion fruit. Caramel.

There are so many pastries to enjoy in this city, but don’t forget to try the macarons.

But our favorite place this time around is located across the street from the Islamic Center, and is called l”A.O.C.

First, it has such a homey atmosphere. The name refers to France’s designated agricultural regions, and features different foods from these diverse places. In effect, you’re getting some of the best eating ingredients from across France.

I started with some jambon, or ham. It was simple, served on a wooden platter, and delicious.

XS had what were advertised as giant snails, although they were “regular” size by his estimation. I loved the garlicky butter, which I soaked up with bread.

My dish was baby pig with crispy potatoes, and it was divine.

Served in Le Creuset, XS got the cassoulet, featuring sausage and pork belly as my favorite contributions. It’s a rustic stew with beans, and it had an incredibly flavored sauce.

Most highly recommended. Their homemade ice creams were delicious, as was the Île flottante.

Learn more online through their website.

For my entrée (think appetizer) I ordered something particularly regional to the basque region, piperade.

This is an egg dish featuring different peppers. The eggs were done gently, and the flavors were good. If I had to describe the flavor and aroma, smoked paprika came to mind.

A special that day was a truffled ravioli. It too was delicious, served in a mild creamy sauce.

XS’s favorite dish was the appetizer of Pyrenees ham, close in flavor to jamón serrano.

Be sure to visit the bathroom; it’s an interesting area, and the sink is operated by foot pedal. Very convenient for hygiene.

Recommended!

Dining here was a small adventure. While we had planned ahead for a reservation, it was ultimately never made for us, and our best bet at eating here (on Thanksgiving night, no doubt) was to arrive around 9-9:30 PM and hope for a seat.

The line extended outside, and it was packed. It was a little confusing on how you were to put your name in — you didn’t, you simply maintained the line as it went inside this small place, right against the bar. After about 1 hour and 25 minutes of waiting, we had hope, and then it happened so quickly - the man behind the bar pointed, and a newly-cleared table was ours.

For 50 Euros per person, you get what the chef wants to serve you. After three amuses, we got the dish seen above, pickled vegetables with raw fish.

Next, bitter treviso.

The entrée (plat principal) was duck with mushroom, including mushroom powder.

A duo of desserts included salsify, the other, berries covered in a dome of cream.

So - how was it, right? This place is currently listed at #11, I think, of San Pellegrino’s top restaurants in the world. First, unlike many American restaurants, this food wasn’t too filling. After eating several plates, each one was reasonable. Each component on each plate had a purpose, it gave something to an over all aesthetic of taste and flavor. Texture wasn’t such a big thing here, the chef is paying his attention on flavors, especially those that may be novel yet ultimately satisfying.

Service was pretty good, with the waiters’ ability to speak to us in English. As it turned out, this place was almost completely filled with Americans at the late hour. But is it a world destination?

I sadly don’t think the wait was worth it… I was happy to eat here, and had a great time. And one could argue about value at the price point. But this is a small restaurant, nothing is fancy. Service was good once we were seated, but it lacked polish. The waiters and waitress were young, doing their thing. The food was imaginative. But, it wasn’t mind blowing or profound.

That’s why, when leaving, and getting a taxi down the street to return to our hotel, I thought of Town House in Chilhowie, VA. It too is a laboratory of flavors, and like Chateaubriand, operates with a small staff and small kitchen. Yet, the flavors are amplified many times over, the courses more numerous. Town House is world class; Chateaubriand, not so much.

Who is to say… I had a good Thanksgiving dinner, but the menu changes nightly. I’d love to return, but I take great satisfaction in knowing better food is available right here, in my own country, and in my own state.

We took some friends along, and as before, had a great time.

First, where to stay? We tried - but the restaurant’s own place, Riverstead, was taken. So we opted for a fresh stay at the Martha Washington in Abingdon.

This was nicer than I had expected… I stepped inside this venerable Civil War-era establishment on a previous visit to Chilhowie; it was old, and had charm, but it wasn’t until we stayed here that I fully got why this place commands a high price.

While certain parts of the property could probably be updated, other parts seem fresh and new. The room’s bathroom was well-appointed with a great shower, and the back of the property now features a spa with a great salt water pool and a double hot tub, outside.

This area is tranquil, with a nice garden.

It’s a short drive (about 30 minutes, by I81), northward up to Chilhowie. There still doesn’t seem much to say about this small town along the highway, except that it still has one of the country’s more innovative restaurants in its small downtown.

You’ve seen it before here on MC, and we started again with the now infamous minestrone soup. It still baffles me why they proffer so little of the delicious, sweet and cool vegetable consomme:

We appreciated getting an extra course on their tasting menu, this one, a “gazpacho” with watermelon and a stewed tomato:

One of the newer dishes, as featured on the Town House Blog is this “salad” of late summer lettuces, with beans and ham cream. It was delicious and created a buzz at the table.

One of the more noteworthy dishes, also new to us, was based on corn. It was basically corn a half-dozen ways, from real silks (tempered by boiling it in a corn broth), to a basil cream of corn, and for contrast, it featured Town House’s famous pig tail. This featured a double wine pairing from (whom we consider a) master sommelier, Charlie Berg. One wine was from Virginia, which had the corn notes, and the other, a Medeira, where the sweetness was an excellent foil against the pork.

Having recently watched an episode of Anthony Bourdain’s show, his 100th episode, where he finishes at the estimable L’Atelier de Jöel Robuchon (which we visited during our Parisian sojourn), I was reminded of their egg custard. I didn’t like it too well, as the eggs were underdone.

Chef John Shields is a real master at egg custards. Each one on my (now) three visits has been different, but each is a master work. This was no different, featuring ramp and salmon roe.

Shields and Company seem to be ever more visiting Japanese influences, featuring bonito in one dish, a sake sidecar on another thanks to Mr. Berg, and in this dish featuring onions prepared different ways, uni (sea urchin).

Among the least successful of the multiple courses was this one, featuring abalone and chicken. The chicken and its flavor was outstanding. But my friends considered the dish too complex, and one complained that the seaweed was too bitter. I found the abalone satisfying at first bite, but ultimately too chewy. Previously, one of Shields’ seaweed dishes that featured oyster was sublime.

There were many masterstrokes in this meal, ever modern with continuous hints of sweet, savory, and sour in each dish. But one of the true masterpieces, a favorite by all, was Karen Uwe Shields’ dessert of stones.

This was a combination of confections that took on every texture, temperature, and flavor. Caramel, chocolate, coffee… all the right notes. Absolutely incredible.

Town House is a far trek, no matter where you live. But it has been featuring, and continued as late as this weekend, to serve incredibly accessible, delicious, fun food. Opt for the wine pairings for true synergy at each turn, should you choose three, five, or ten courses.

I recently had the chance to visit the J. Child exhibit again at the Smithsonian’s American History museum. I also took advantage of the time in D.C. to visit two great places: Zaytinya near the convention center near G and 9th; and a new place for me, Sushi Taro.

“Z” is a tapas or “small plates” type of place, but instead of Spanish food, is centered around Greek and mediterranean fare. Everything we had, from the veal cheek, to the crispy eggplant, to the heirloom salad was great. Bright flavors, well-seasoned, and great service too.

Another delight was their trio of ice creams dessert… they make these in-house, and you can choose three. The strawberry/lemon verbena one was great, but the rich vanilla with phillo and their thyme ice cream were even better. I highly recommend Zaytinya.

Sushi taro was interesting: we opted for a tasting menu. They offered three of these: a “traditional” one, one centered on fish, and a third centered on soft-shelled turtle. We took the sushi route, and we experienced almost twenty different tastes of different seafood. The meal was significant, but not so much that you left feeling uncomfortable. The tastes between different fishes is subtle, but when that next piece is alone on the plate or with two companions, the comparisons become intellectual. Intellectual eating doesn’t sound fun, but I tend to think folks who seek out rare foods or food experiences are considering what they eat in a very intellectual way.

Sushi Taro ended the meal with a mango ice cream that sounded pedestrian. Coupled with green tea, this dessert was quite extraordinary. While new to me, I’d recommend this experience to others who want to experience more traditional Japanese flavors.

If you go for a plain cup, like I did, or even a cone, you can enjoy the ultra-smooth texture of premium Goodberry’s custard. It’s 80% unctuousness and 20% flavor. A real treat.

If you’re more daring and treasure texture, go for the “Carolina Concrete,” a mixture of their smooth custard against the symphony of a dozen different additions, including nuts, fruits, or flavorings. The resulting “Blizzard-esque” result is so thick it stands in the cup, held upside down.

Recommended.

Since Patrick O’Connell has been called the pope of new American cuisine, then I believe John Shields is food’s Saint Peter…

This weekend I had the ultimate pleasure of dining at Town House in Chilhowie, Virginia. This restaurant is owned by the Bishop Family, but all the culinary expertise is from the husband and wife team of John and Karen Urie Shields. Having worked previously for some of the better restaurants in Chicagoland, they now do multi-course menus in this extremely small town off I-81 in southwest Virginia.

I have to preface what I am about to say with a few things, so please indulge me my ability to say them. I know this review will be long to give the meal justice, so please excuse the overall length as well.

I’ve had the great fortune over my lifetime thus far to eat in some incredible restaurants. A good review shouldn’t require a pedigree of the reviewer, but I feel it’s necessary here. I’ve eaten the works of Keller, Boulud, & Robuchon. Cantu & Richard. I stood at the front door of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay. One of the best meals I’ve had was at Chef Andrew Weissman’s Le rêve.

If you don’t read what I’ve written below, that’s fine. But you’ll thank me if you follow my advice. Go to Chilhowie and book a table at Town House. It was by far the best meal I’ve ever had in my entire life. It was brilliant. Unbelievable. A true sensation.

This is a brand of molecular gastronomy which makes the meal less about science and wonder and more about the pursuit of the best possible combinations of flavors and textures. They offer à la carte dining in addition to two tasting menus. This is what we had. The numbers in parenthesis refer to the picture numbers below.

Amuses

• Olive Cookie (1)
• Pork Belly Taco (2)
• Crab Chips (3)

Courses

• Chilled Vegetable Minestrone
• Brûlée of Smoked Salmon Roe (4)
• The Orange from Valencia (5)
• Cardamom Scented Squab & Duck (6)
• Scrambled Egg Mousse (7)
• Chorizo Bouillon (9)
• Cured Hamachi & Bev Eggleston’s Pig Tail (10)
• Thorntree Farms Lamb Cooked in Ash (11)

Intermezzo

• Pepper Potato Bread with EVOO (8)

Desserts

• Covered in Snow… Foggy Ridge’s Pippin Apple (12)
• Purple Mountains (Majesty) (13)

Finale

• Chocolate EVOO Truffles

First, Chilhowie is not much of a town: it’s small and it baffles the mind as to why this place is where it is. But don’t let that stop you from paying a visit. The restaurant now runs its own small B&B, and you can find posh accommodations in nearby Abingdon or Marion, both along I-81.

The dining room is small, but features good lighting that other restaurants often eschew in place of making you guess what’s been set down on the table. All the waitstaff were friendly, but their wine guy seemed to be the most knowledgeable and often the one explaining each of our many courses. The atmosphere is somewhat casual and chic, but simple too.

I added a wine pairing option to my menu, and each of the wines were very well paired to each course. My memory doesn’t serve me well enough to go into detail, but the wines came from all over the world: Spain, Virginia, France, etc. They also offer a premium selection of wines at a $15 markup.

While service was great, I’ve actually had more “professional” service elsewhere. But where at some places fine service raises the stuffiness level, here, things were relaxed and the opposite of stuffy. This is not a place where a suit is required for gents, so I found the whole experience here relaxed and enjoyable. They asked us where we were from, and chef John Shields said hello to us before we left, noting our city of origin. Chilhowie is a small place that likely never gets too fussy. In the same positive way, Town House is very similar.

So what made this the best meal I’ve ever eaten?

We started with amuses that did just that: they amused us both with taste and intellect. Those little mini tacos were so cute, and incredibly tasty. I could have eaten a dozen.

The first course was from the book of Charlie Trotter: a cold “minestrone.” Little “pastas” of pure vegetables stood at attention on the plate, while the waiter poured this magic clear vegetable broth into our bowls. What a refreshing dish. It was simple, but elegant and the intense flavor from each vegetable was carrying its essence. The broth had a sweetness to it and was truly an experience. It was exquisite, deserving the label “magic.”

My favorite course of the evening came next, served in a round bowl that came with a clear disc on top, studded with seeds. The unlikely combination of flavors was a brilliant expression that was at once other-worldly and rare. Chefs Shields combine coconut, mustard, avocado, banana, celery and cilantro with salty salmon eggs beneath a sweet “crust” or “brûlée.” Again, if you tripled it I could have eaten it over and over again, it was spectacular.

The next course was a puzzle. Entitled “The Orange from Valencia,” it was an interesting expression of bitter and sweet. Inside were two plump, flavorful mussels. I can’t begin to name everything else inside, but the shell of the orange had been treated with liquid nitrogen and the leaves were edible hyssop.

My gracious companion’s favorite dish was our next course, served beneath a foamy topping. It combined duck and squab with pear, passion fruit seeds, a funky rendition of broccoli, and stilton-poached wine. This was most delicious. At this point I wondered where things would turn foul. Nothing yet failed to impress or delight us.

The next course was an egg course; birch syrup combined with spices and salty chives to make an incredible combination of flavors. “Yummo!” might shout TV personality Rachael Ray. It was superb. The wine pairing was great too, an aged Madeira.

We next got a repose with the service of two outstanding, warm peppery potato-bread rolls. They serve some delicious EVOO in a little mini-pitcher.

The next dish took us to Spain, and was all about “Chorizo” without the said sausage. Mini pillows of manchego cheese filled our soup bowls along with a large globule of cuddlefish ink. This was a thin “bouillon,” but was absolutely filled with rich flavors. We indeed visited Spain.

Probably my third favorite course was our next: Cured Hamachi and Bev Eggleston’s Pig Tail although our waiter more appropriately called it a still life of the ocean floor. In addition to a pickled oyster, it came with a broth pouring, various seaweeds, and a crunchy/chewy piece of pork. This was imaginative and thoroughly delicious and exciting. Wow. The melding of diversity was spot-on delicious, and this one came with a dual pairing of wine: both sake and a Riesling were served and both played roles at accentuating the myriad flavors.

The next course was my least favorite, but that’s not to say it was bad. If this was the worst, then that’s saying a lot about the high level of everything else. This is chef Shields’ famous lamb course, which for us included the lamb’s heart. I confess I didn’t eat the entirety of the heart, as I’m not the world’s biggest enthusiast of offal. Nevertheless, the textures and flavors here were rich and deep, combining burnt leek, cherries, the leather of fruit, and the wine — a Bandol — was a superb and equal match to all of those flavors. This dish exemplified why the Shields not only know how to perform some funky treatments to food, but are masters at combining different flavors to exquisite new heights.

The dessert courses were no less impressive here. The winner, however, and #2 in my lineup of the best of the evening was the “Covered in Snow” dessert that combined salty strong herbs with peanut, chocolate mousse, and an incredible apple cider augmented with brandy. That beverage comes from “Foggy Ridge,” and our waiter told us the source was only about “an hour away.” The next day we paid them a visit and picked up some of their amazing product which is made from over 30 heirloom apple varieties.

The final dessert was neat: concord grape, black sesame, greek yogurt, and anise seed all came together to make “purple mountains.” A nice accent in this dish was the meyer lemon rind.

Over coffee, I saw a placement of two small chocolate truffles come to the table, and at that point, I was full and didn’t want another bite. “Ah… typical, little chocolate truffles…”

It was only after the waiter told us they were EVOO chocolate truffles that I became intrigued. As you pop one in your mouth, they almost immediately melt, and the marriage of deep cocoa notes, sweetness, and sublime flavor of good extra virgin oil impregnates your mouth with a lasting bemusement. What an incredible way to finish a stellar meal.

I realize molecular gastronomy isn’t everyone’s thing. But I think Chefs Shields do it an extreme justice and make the most satisfying food. Of course, I recommend it. The meal was a 10 on the awesome scale. Visit their website online and enjoy. If you’re more interested in the chef’s approach to their dishes, they do their work justice with a picture blog.

Ever feel like dim sum cuisine for dinner? These folks have it.

Just about everything we ordered here was tasty and delicious. Plan on ordering a lot of little dishes, as the bite-sized pieces of most things won’t fill you up alone. While we had some confusions with the service here, I blame the foreigners (us) moreso than the servers.

Just don’t expect any fanciful drinks from the bar — unless you can clearly articulate how to make your favorite drinks. I’m only sad I missed the live music by visiting on a Sunday evening.

The evening’s 6-course tasting menu was augmented by 3 additions, including a mushroom amuse bouche, a lamb course, and an extra dessert course, spicy with ginger gelée and a pear canelle.

The mushroom “fritter” against a mushroom purée was the essence of delicious mushroom. It was a tease. It was served with a rhubarb “spritzer,” which at first sip, I described as “happy in a glass.” The second course was not as bold, but was equally as delicious, featuring young lamb.

The regular menu’s selection began with a Cured Aiguillette of Ivory Salmon. This included flavors of cherry and hyssop, and the tiniest dice of chive. It was pure, raw, and deep-flavored. “Ivory” refers to its color: instead of pink, it was mostly white. This course was refreshing.

The braised veal tongue with a blue crab beignet was interesting. It’s the first time I’ve eaten tongue. Served over an asparagus salad, the tastiest part was that hot crab beignet. It was delicious. Also special was the perfect cooking (and texture) of the asparagus.

The grilled Maine lobster was our favorite course, featuring house-made choizo sausage, young fava beans, and a so-called tomato broth. This broth was poured after service (the lobster coming upon a bed of bread), around the centerpiece, but was by far one of the most tastiest liquids upon which I’d ever supped. I can’t believe it was “just” tomato, as I exclaimed, “something died to make this broth so delicious.”

That’s why Ziebold is a chef, I just a cook.

The pan roasted ribeye of prime beef was good, but not overly exciting. One piece was well-salted, the other was not. The sides, which included mushroom-flavored onions and “potato tobacco” was delicious—both winners. The wine pairing here, a Spanish tempranillo was a perfect match, a rather luscious wine.

The cheese cart visit was most pleasing. Each diner can choose their own personalized tour of cheeses. We both especially liked one that had three milks (cow, sheep, and goat) that had a texture reminiscent of whipped cream. Spicy nuts and nubs of sweet fruit pastes added more dimension to the cheeses themselves.

The meal unfortunately ended on a sour note, specifically, a dessert they call City Zen Piña Colada, with flavors of pineapple and coconut. The pastry is described by the menu as a “chiboust,” and by the waiter as a “kind of soufflé,” but I found it disappointing. The wine pairing, however, was perfectly suited to the tropical, sour flavors, a 2005 Linden Petite Manseng from Virginia.

All in all, my trip to City Zen was rewarding and delicious. In comparison to the master Thomas Keller, these dishes were more bold. But like Keller’s cooking, a lot of detail went into each dish: its flavor profiles, its texture. Excellent bread service (including the famous buttery parker house rolls) was included, with two Pennsylvania butters. One was soft like melting sweet ice cream, the other with a salty punch.

This is a special place that deserves mention alongside other great restaurants in the area, not to mention across the country. While every detail on my visit wasn’t utter perfection, some perfection still goes a long way. Enthusiastically recommended.

First, I wanted to share with you another salad I made.

It was going to be a Cobb, but I decided at the last minute not to include the bacon. And besides, the lettuce mixture (I know, sad, from a bag) already had another vegetables in it that kinda ruined the whole Cobb theme. But we did have avocado, Hanover tomatoes, and chicken.

We also had a delicious soup, a corn soup that I tried to “copy” from an experience I had at Can Can here in Richmond. There’s was better, but mine wasn’t bad. I tried out my new kitchen device - a so-called “China cap” for straining and making super-smooth soups.

Speaking of CanCan, I really enjoyed dinner there on Friday night. I think that’s become my favorite Richmond eatery.

And before that… our trip to Canada had many gourmet delights.

At the Post Inn (couldn’t find a website) near Lake Louise in Alberta, we had a fabulous lunch. Above, you can see my short ribs in risotto. The interior reminded me of a little bit of the Inn at Little Washington. See if you see the resemblance:

And then, earlier, we’d eaten a delicious meal at the Banffshire Club at the Fairmont Banff Springs. The tuna was a big hit.

My favorite was the kobe beef course. Below, the duck. That big, juicy cherry helped me stain my shirt.

The same hotel sports an Italian eatery, and they had a great scallops wrapped in pancetta appetizer.

Anyhow, I hope you’ve enjoyed this little review of August. More MessyCuisine in September!

You can purchase a high-$20s steak up to the most expensive $135; there’s seafood, some old fashioned favorites (escargot), and a casual yet very professional demeanor to the service and setting. Folks go to Bohanan’s no doubt to relax, enjoy a good meal, and be spoiled by tasty simplicity, knowing everything will be “just so.” Just so, it turns out, is darn good.

I had their “special” carprese salad with heirloom tomatoes, basil, and the typical olive oil and balsamic vinegar. It’s an easy treat to make at home, for sure, and at $15, it seemed overpriced. But you’re also paying for the substantial table, the (again, I know) professional service. And that was one exceptional tomato. It only needed salt, and they thankfully brought me “sea salt” upon request. It wasn’t just Kosher salt, either; it was fleur de sel. Nice touch.

I opted for their pancetta-wrapped diver’s scallops which arrived after some pause. They were perfectly cooked, and served with a perfect size accompaniment of mashed potatoes and bok choy. Substantial, without going overboard. I wasn’t the only pleased one at the table, either. From the appetizers, to the entrées, and the sorbet and excellent bread in between, Bohanan’s has a formula down and hits on all points.

Dessert, shared between three, was appropriate; chocolate is always a fitting dessert: this one featured tiramisù in a chocolate shell. Rich, satisfying, and a fine ending.

I figure people go to Bohanan’s to have an above-average steak, and to be ‘treated’ to a special time. Their food, I felt, was ultimately overpriced. Yet, rarely do you find service that was as well done: not too stuffy, not too much; just right.

Pompous perhaps, but well-deserved, too. This place had an incredibly imaginative menu that when tested with our tasting, won rave reviews across the board.

The waitstaff was not pompous; instead, they were well-trained, honest, and very knowledgeable about the ingredients and dishes. The atmosphere was modern, edgy, comfortable, and whimsical. You imagine that perhaps after a nice visit to the new, modern-designed museum downtown, that you might stroll-over to this vibrant place for delicious snacks, live music, or both.

Something like foamy lobster with green beans in a lukewarm-smear of wasabi-scented whipped potatoes. “Unusual combinations of temperature, spice, and sour are in this dish, amazing” was at least one comment that was echoed across several dishes.

I opted for a smaller duet of plates, from the English pea agnolotti with speck, to the root-vegetable-encrusted lobster bites with sweet, sour, and creamy flavors and textures. Each taste combination was calculated, for sure, but ultimately pleasing, intriguing, and satisfying.

Imagine our delight when a quartet of equally inventive desserts made their way out, from a whole host of flavors like banana, chocolate, saffron, and more covered the gamut from satisfying and familiar to exotic and sublime. Where else will you find desserts that contain Fruity Pebbles, and Dr. Pepper-soaked pop rocks?

All in all, everything was delicious. We enjoyed watching the dinner being made via flat-screen TVs that were connected to in-kitchen cameras. 202 Market just might be world-class. I hope it can stay in Roanoke; it is a destination restaurant that changes its menu often, and promises a variety of entertaining options.

While eating at Daniel, we sampled five courses from their tasting menu. The meal was preceded by assorted double canapes, each of which was simply delicious. A fried cheese number, a salmon mousse, and something else truffly. They were num-nums which satisfied us, and prepared us for more. The menu was difficult to navigate, everything popped off the page with such flowery descriptions that it was tough to choose. Tasting menu, then, it was.

The courses:

• Mousseline of Foie Gras with Fig on Brioche (appetizer x 2)
• Duo of Peeky Toe Crab, one en geée with fennel and cumin-carrot foam, and also with a summer roll with jicama, yellow-curry, and basil salad (fish course 1)
• Tai Snapper Ceviche with Kumquat Coulis, watercress, tomato compote, and radish salad (fish course 1)
• Roasted Striped Bass with Almond-Chanterelle Crust, carmelized cipollini onions, braised lettuce, and bacon jus (fish course 2)
• Slow-Baked Maine Halibut with Satur Farms Carrots, Creamy Spinach, Orange-Mustard Glaze, and a Tellicherry Pepper Sauce (fish course 2)
• Duo of Dry-Aged Beef: Braised Short Rib in Red Wine with Asparagus Mousseline, seared rib-eye with pickled swiss chard, and morilles à la crème (main entrée, x 2)
• Strawberry-Hyssop Vacherin with an Almond Milk Gelée, Lemon Meringue, Marinated Strawberries, and Almond Tuile (dessert)
• Chocolate-Caramel Millefeuille with Vanilla Confiture de Lait “Fleur de Sel” Caramel Ice Cream (dessert)

First, the atmosphere at Daniel lives up to the hype; fresh flowers abound both the lounge, and especially the main dining room. The entrance on an off-street next to Park Ave. is non-descript, save for the overhang above the entrance. Once inside, you are enveloped in a deep red, rich color, the atmosphere is one of utter comfort. The bar area featured a flower arrangement that was simply stunning, it combined both fresh and dried flowers, and the bar area might just have been one of the most inviting and satisfying (visually) to look at. Well-done.

Service was good. I was somewhat annoyed at the end having to wait for the check to arrive after dessert was finished, and cleared, but save for this snafu, things went smoothly. All service personnel did well to make us feel comfortable, to explain dishes on the menu, and dishes were served in concert and explanations.

I can’t personally speak for every item listed above, but the opening official course #1 of foie gras was disappointing. The best foie gras dish I’ve had in recent years has been at 1 North Belmont here in Richmond. This was a mousse of foie gras, which meant it had to be spread on something… they provided toasted brioche. It as good, mind you, but it was more for the texture of the spread, than the taste. The fig jam was good, but maybe even too strong for the dish to really sparkle. It was good, but for this quality of restaurant, it left me wanting more, or better.

The fish dishes were good; they were perfumed and scented with a variety of flavors and smells that told me that great lengths were taken to create the dishes I experienced. Even so, they lacked flavors strong enough to scream.

The two samples of beef were incredible. The thin shaved asparagus served alongside the beef was wonderful, by virtue of its texture. The rib-eye piece was so flavorful, so perfect a morsel of food, it deserves special praise. I only wish their had been more.

Finally, the dessert… Madalines were served alongside dessert wine, coffee, and the more elaborate desserts. Mine was an elaborate cookie and a canelle of ice cream… incredibly rich, complex, layered flavor. The “cookie” “mille fueille” was underwhelming, in total honesty, but then again, there was nothing that wasn’t delicious.

Daniel offers creative dishes, a delicious decor, and even more delicious options on a well-composed menu. Every dish didn’t sing 4 stars for me, but dinner was nevertheless a work of culinary art. It’s hard to say if the cuisine is “have to have it” among all the options in New York, but for those with a taste for creative cuisine, elaborate preparations, or simply layers of flavor, it may well be deserving of your time.

The establishment opened several years ago, and when it did, I was excited. As a Food Network junkie, and a fan of the Iron Chef show, to taste some of this guy’s food was an attractive opportunity. Having occasion to visit Philadelphia recently, I stopped by in a party of four on a Wednesday evening.

First, word must be said about the interior and aesthetic of this place. You walk along Chestnut St. and this is not a “high-end” neighborhood where boutique restaurants are found. The fascia of Moriomoto is an understated modern statement, that blends away. One in our party walked right past; I had recalled the look of the place from the FoodTV special “Moriomoto RAW!” where they detailed the opening and design of the restaurant.

The two green doors leading inside filter out light to the interior. The first thing you notice inside is the smell of sea water. I think they mist this stuff at the entrance; I also noticed sea sounds as we walked in. All this was subtle—not everyone noticed this aesthetic touch—but it was a nice play on our senses.

We were seated in the front of the restaurant. My view, down the long establishment’s dining room was awesome, but unfortunately the opposite view was less intriguing. Throughout the meal, the air conditioner was dripping condensation on one of our diners; his complaints didn’t warrant much resolution, save for a “swabbing” of the air conditioning vent above. We later moved one booth back, switched “directions”, and enjoyed a larger space that sat six for dessert (the two of us who had the better “view” positioned our new seats in the opposite direction towards the door/entrance).

The decor and design is wholly unique and special. Yes, the light colors coming through the glass booths do change color as you dine. This is a big cheesy gimmick, but that’s fun sometimes. Here it works well. The little “candles” on each table, a light fixture that is attached to the table, looked like some sort of sexual play toy. Two diners noted “they had to go.” I don’t think this look was lost on the designers, it certainly sparked conversation and made the environment all the more provocative, depending upon your sensibilities.

The restroom, located front, in a basement, was an interesting area. You go down a hall, and the women’s and men’s are “together,” but split; women go to the left, men to the right. There’s a trough sink, with extremely hot water. It’s not dangerous, but I wonder if the water is maintained this hot to appeal to a Japanese aesthetic of clean? The stalls are made of bamboo, and while the look and floor are interesting, nothing here is too lavish. It’s a bathroom, after all.

Service was a mixed bag. Service was not “attentive.” When you think of good service, you think of course of friendliness, but also promptness. You don’t want to sit there for 10-15 minutes with an finished plate of food, without it being cleared. Also, dishes arrived one at a time, per diner; dishes were not presented in concert with the group. This didn’t bother me, per se, but it made the time when a diner should begin eating frustrating when trying to be polite to others. The one nice touch to service was a thorough explanation of what each dish was, how to eat it, what not to touch, etc. Unfortunately, some of these explanations were lost on the loud acoustic noise in the restaurant.

The menus are presented on small white card stock; they open up, of course, but their feel make me think that the menu might change more often than not. Morimoto’s website is not very usable (as it is based on Flash), but you can download the menu (PDF). This will certainly help me identify the dishes, as I did not take notes during dinner.

H20 Cocktail

Biberfan isn’t a big drinker; I know some about wine, but I don’t drink it very often. I am a fan, however, of novelty cocktails, and I really do like Bacardi O, an orange-flavored rum. The H20 cocktail came blue in a martini glass with a wedge of orange. It was very refreshing, not too “alcoholic,” and it gave me the impression of cold water. Cold water, you say? Yes, the citrus flavors were there, but it tasted of really good cold, clean water. Expensive, I think, but I recommend this one.

Oyster Foie Gras

Your plate comes, hot; they’ve heated up rock salt, embedded (or encrusted, if you like) with different aromatics: cinnamon, cardamom, star anise, peppercorns, etc., to keep the oysters hot. Each of three large oysters are joined by small pieces of foie gras, uni (sea urchin), and a teriyaki sauce. This was one unusual dish, but one I’m very glad I ordered. In my notes on the plane ride home, I noted “sublime.” This was a special treat, a mixture of flavors that were certainly unique, and luxurious. It was difficult to eat everything “as one,” but I think if I got it again, I would pick these up, and slide everything in at once. They had a very fresh sea taste; a smokey note, and all these diverse flavors were rich and wonderful. “A party for the mouth.” I could have eaten three more.

Chef’s Combination Sushi-Rolls

For dinner I chose the mid-level chef’s combination of two rolls and sushi. It came on a long platter, and featured one piece each of a variety of fish. The rolls that included spring onion had a gritty feel (at least two), and I’m not sure why. Two pieces of the fish were difficult to chew (one, I know, was squid).

Aside from these notes, the fish tasted of the “sea” in a way I had only previously heard described. Each piece offered a different, yet subtle commentary on clean, discreet flavors. The presentation was nice, and as an entrée this was good. If I ever visit again, I’d order something more “out there” as my companions’ dishes looked far more elaborate. Still, while no sushi expert, I think what was presented was very good quality, and I enjoyed the variety. On special that night was a wild salmon, that was probably the darkest, fattiest salmon I’d ever seen; it was very delicious, with texture and mouth feel, this was a winner when presented raw.

Mango-Shiso Mille Feuille

A dessert masterpiece. White chocolate mousse. Mango. Coconut tapioca. Shards of shaved philo dough. This dessert looks like a fuzzy, furry hat. While not big on color, it was huge on flavor, and a winning essay on texture. This was awesome. True “Iron Chef.”

Wasabi Tiramisú

I love tira mi sú, and here Moriomoto does it with the addition of wasabi to the marscapone. We ordered this, and shared it, to see well, what it would taste like. Our curiosity brought mixed reactions. “I don’t taste the wasabi,” to “I wouldn’t order this again!” to “It’s awful!” I am the one who kind of liked it; the quality of the cheese was good, I thought, and the flavor submitted to our mouths by way of the wasabi paste was certainly interesting, and thought provoking. I might wager that a green-tea flavor was there, or might have been more successful, but the spice was subtle and present. It was certainly unusual, and this whole place goes by that label. Probably not the strongest dessert on their menu, but who knows… I kind of liked it. Your mileage may vary.

Other dishes ordered by us included:

• Calamari Tempura Salad
• Shrimp Tempura Roll
• California Roll
• Ishi Yaki Buri Bop (tuna on rice served at the table in a hot bowl)
• Seafood Toban Yaki (served with yuzu butter)
• Moriomoto Surf and Turf (Kobe short rib and half-lobster tail with assorted sauces)

The tuna-rice dish was an interesting presentation at table; the tuna is placed raw on top of your mound of rice; it’s brought to table in a super-hot stone bowl; the tuna is then “stuck” on the side of the bowl, to cook, and while this goes on, the server mixes egg with the rice, and sauce. Then the tuna is mixed in. This dish didn’t look very exciting (with regards to color), but the show was interesting. We liked it.

The salad was good; good flavors, and the calamari wasn’t chewy.

The toban yaki was a fest for the eyes, and those eyes ought to belong to a seafood lover. A hot broth engulfed several large pieces of seafood, it was joined by baby bok choy.

In total, Moriomoto was a very interesting place to dine. The menu is diverse, and I know each of us enjoyed what we ordered. Improvements might be made on how customers are served and addressed, but having only visited once, I can’t say this is a trend. To lovers of fusion cuisine, and of course to those whom are fans of Morimoto, the chef, I fully endorse a visit. Mr. Moriomoto was not there the evening we dined, but his spirit was certainly there in some unique offerings.

Technorati Tags: restaurant, morimoto

This was my second visit to 11 Maple, a gourmand’s destination in the so-called treasure coast area of southeastern Florida. Located in a small cottage among more touristy destinations, this quaint, eclectically-styled restaurant serves creative interpretations of excellent cuisine.

Two menus were presented to us; one a long list of “small plates” and another of entrées. Our server Joy was a pleasant host. Our only real complaint for the restaurant was its choice of tap water. My parents informed me this was “Florida tap water” which smells smokey and is not palatable. We were not offered any other water choices for the evening.

I had their kobe hanger steak small plate, served with fried onion rings and a mayonnaise-based sauce. The beef was excellent, and the flavors all combined nicely with the wine choice of the evening, a Shiraz/Cabernet blend from Lake Breeze in Australia.

My larger plate of duck breast and confit duck leg was also tasty. The confit leg was less well executed; the breast was good, and the accompanying sauce (with smokey sweetness) was great. Other entrées and dishes included sea bass, elk, tofu soup, and a calamari salad.

Two desserts were ordered: pear cake and their white chocolate bread pudding. Both were very well received by all at the table. We of course left too full, but everything on the plate was enjoyable, and as my dad remarked, “A work of art” (referring to presentation).

I have no reservation in recommending your visit to 11 Maple Street in Jensen Beach. From the decor, to the variety of dishes, to the relaxed atmosphere, there is bound to be a good time for all.

N.B. For those reading and paying attention to the star ratings, I felt I could not give 11 Maple a full 5-star recommendation. The level of service(s) offered, one wrong order, etc., eclipsed the restaurant from a designation of full, top-quality in rating. With small adjustments, this location could attain a 5-star rating based on the criteria we use at MessyCuisine. This visit followed an earlier one in 2005. Our impressions the second time around were more favorable, and we wish the outfit on a continued course for success.

Here is my review from December, 2005, detailing my first visit to 11 Maple Street. I awarded it 4 stars then.

After Christmas this year, my family and I dined at 11 Maple Street in Jensen Beach, Florida. My parents had chosen the location, and deemed it “the best we can offer.” It had supposed been rated #1 in the “Treasure Coast” area of south-central Florida, on the Atlantic coast.

It’s an old house, and during warmer weather, you can eat both inside and out; for us, we sat in the largest of the interior rooms, off to side of the main building which also included restrooms and the kitchen. I’ve eaten at many good places in my life (I’m not boasting, but I am rather fond of reminding myself how good life has treated me), and it seems restaurants can do two things to impress people, their guests: good service, good food. I think good service is easier than good food. And great service says nothing about the quality of food. True exceptions in the business are those that excel equally well at both food and service, but this distinction is important.

I saw more of an emphasis at 11 Maple on the food, more so than the service. This is not to say you’ll be treated poorly here, but simply, they’re not going to go overboard for you. This is not a place where napkins get re-folded when you walk away from your table; you may have to ask for a knife after yours has been taken away, and your waiter may not always be within eye’s view, should you need something.

The decor of the restaurant was special, and I imagine eating in one of their little alcove rooms is special too. Where touches made the atmosphere inviting, others directly in front of us were missing: the plates, the silver, the glasses were unimpressive. The tap water they served was really poor. It tasted like charcoal. So, on one hand, I’d lump service, and ‘table service’ together as “just okay” at 11 Maple. The surroundings, and the food, were much better.

The menu changes regularly, and their selection of appetizers and main entrées was impressive for its variety. I could hardly pick too many from their list that might disappoint. We ended up choosing 2 sea bass entrées, 1 hanger steak entree, and one beef tenderloin entrée. For appetizers we sampled the arugala/balsamic pear salad, the crisp artichokes, and the spinach/calamari salad. All were delicious. Strong flavors were had on mine, but the whole thing was delicious. Pear, blue cheese, and the sweetness from balsamic vinegar was excellent. Scent was imposed by way of porcini mushrooms. Odd mixtures of ingredients, but satisfaction followed.

The fish entrées had strong flavors. I loved mine; it was characteristic of a strong woody, smokey flavor. Another didn’t like the dish as well; he felt the flavors were too strong, and things tasted “burnt.” The favorite, for me, was the smokey, dense flavor of roasted tomato and corn which served as a base for this dish. The hanger steak entrée was stunning, but less-estatic comments were delivered by way of the tenderloin entrée.

The Riesling wine I chose went superbly with the fish. It was a less-than-excellent match with other things I sampled. Despite any good judgement I had by meal’s end, I had to try one of their desserts.

Their coconut sorbet was served in a martini glass; the glass was anchored on the plate using chocolate sauce. This dessert was creamy and rich; the glass was composed of pineapple chunk-sized pieces of frozen coconut sorbet. The texture when biting into each one was incredible, a real treat, and a 5-star dessert. It was my cold-sensitive teeth, however, that got the best of me, but if you can stand biting into cold fare, this was the restaurants tour de force. It is rich, when eaten in full, so like I did, I would recommend sharing it.

In all, the meal at 11 Maple St. may in fact be one of the best the Treasure Coast has to offer. For me, everything was delicious, but improvements in service and perhaps the wares on the table would make it truly world-class. The good news, however, is you don’t need to dress formally to enjoy great, creative cuisine.