April 21, 2008

I don’t want to re-make the Julie/Julia story, but I did check-out Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking after seeing Ina Garten make the classic Coq au vin the other day. I followed Child’s recipe almost completely, taking the modern liberties at times that the Barefoot Contessa seemed to recommend.

You start by browning some chicken pieces in bacon fat. This dish is about the wine, the bacon, and the deep brown flavors that emerge.

I precooked my mushrooms in the fat after removing the chicken, and added tomato paste. We then added wine, chicken stock, and the bacon pieces back into the pot.

Pearl onions (frozen) and carrots get added to the party (Garten’s party), and the thing gets covered. Child does this on the stove top (as did I), but Ina Garten puts hers in the oven for about an hour.

I also made a quick broccoli soup to start; pretty simple, just added vegetable stock and a touch of cream.

And with the chicken, I wanted garlic mashed potatoes. I put about 5 garlic cloves in heavy cream while I riced the baking potatoes.

As you can see, I invited Dr. Parmesan to the party.

I thought the flavors were great… I’d had this homemade years ago and hated it. This one was great.

I served a pair of Côtes du Rhône wines; we preferred the more expensive bottle on the left. Both contributed to the wine “sauce” in the dish. Bon appétit!


Filed by MessyChef at April 21st, 2008 under French, In the Kitchen
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Sunday night I made a salad that featured domestic prosciutto, mozzarella cheese, and tomato, with left-over bread. It was delicious. I used a creamy parmesan-pepper dressing.

The main course was a special Cavanna-made gorgonzola (blue cheese) gnocchi, with a tomato and basil sauce. I augmented the cheese factor by adding fresh grated parmesan. It too, was delicious.
Here’s another gratuitous shot of that salad.


Filed by MessyChef at April 21st, 2008 under In the Kitchen
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April 14, 2008

I recently made a lasagna dinner. I used the pre-cooked lasagna noodles. Like Cooks Illustrated suggested in a recent podcast, I pre-soaked the lasagna noodles in warm water for 3-4 minutes.
We started with a simple “salad” of sweet tomatoes, with typical flavors: basil, prosicutto, and mozzarella cheese. EVOO and a balsamic glaze completed the dish, alongside fresh pepper and sea salt.

The lasagna was a hybrid recipe; it couldn’t decide if it was a cheese one, a meat one, or a tomatoey one.

Ingredients included:
- one can chopped tomatoes
- garlic
- 1/2 medium onion
- 1/2 lb. pork, 1/2 lb. beef
- fresh thyme
- crimini mushrooms
- bechemel sauce (thickened milk, augmented with 3 cheeses)
- grated Fontina
- grated Parmesan
- crumbled Maytag Bleu
I layered the noodles between the cheese sauce and then the meat with mushrooms. Back and forth, cheese sauce on top, with extra parmesan. The cheese sauce could have also yielded a good macaroni and cheese dish, with the addition of bread crumbs.

Best one I’d made; the combination of cheeses was a real winner!

Filed by MessyChef at April 14th, 2008 under In the Kitchen
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March 29, 2008

On my second stop on the culinary tour of Washington, D.C., we chose the country-French “bistro” if you will, called Bastille, located in Alexandria on N. Royal. It’s a small dining room, with a friendly waitstaff, bar dining, and plenty to choose from on their modernized French menu. This isn’t fussy French, old-school French; instead, it’s modern, tasty, and nostalgic, all at the same time.
Course 1
First up for me was a beet carpaccio, with freshly made Boursin cheese. Served with some garlic toasts, olive oil, and sea salt, this was a freshing, delicious combination. It’s something simple enough I could make at home, but something richly unusual that I wouldn’t have just “through up” on my own. Texture and flavors were sublime. More cheese and crisps would have made the dish even stronger.

My companion had their soup special, cauliflower and broccoli cream soup with crispy pancetta. He thought it was not salty enough, and could have used another element for “punch.” The amount of pancetta was lacking, in my visual opinion.
Course 2
Next up for me was foie gras “two ways.” I’ve had both before. A sweet accompaniment made the sautéed version delicious, it reminded me of the once great version served at 1 North Belmont in Richmond with cherries. The cold preparation was also good; it came alive with some sea salt on top. Delicious. I had hard time deciding between this one and a homemade duck trio, including duck prosciutto.

Our server was helpful, but he seemed stretched. Other servers and bussers were all very friendly. We really enjoyed the vibe at Bastille.
Course 3
Next was my entrée which was a special. “Melt in your mouth” beef short rib. This was served with oniony flair, trumpet mushrooms, and some creamy mashed potatoes. The “greens” weren’t my favorite, they were difficult to chew; but their flavor was a nice match.
The wine I was recommended was a real winner. It perfectly matched the mushroom flavors. For the life of me, I forget its name although I have it archived. It was French, and quite delicious.

My companion ordered their version of seafood stew. He liked most everything except for the fish, which seemed to be a salted cod. He compared it more favorably than others he’s had.
Course 4
For dessert, I had the 3-cheese plate. Again, I forget my options; one was a smooth creamy cheddar (unlike you’ve ever likely had, more like brie), and each had a little “side” flavor to go with the cheese. This by far was the most delicious aspect of the whole meal. Each cheese was unique, each one a rich combination of flavors that was simply divine, for mouth feel and texture, to the ripe flavors. Add a little sweet here, or some honey and nut there, and it was the highlight of the meal.

Bonus Course
Our waiter, he was a pushover for a taste of chocolate mousse. He was great in helping us get the name of my wine and the artist’s name whose work was featured on Bastille’s back wall. Their chocolate mousse was flavored with a liquor-masticated cherry and a shard of white chocolate. All together, a perfect ending and delicious both in flavors and in textures.

Final Thoughts
I am not sure if everything on Bastille’s menu is excellent; but with our server’s help, I had one winner after another. While the attention and details aren’t what you’ll find in a super fussy place with higher prices, the food here is honest, well-thought-out, and rich without being overbearing. And you can dine well here too, with special pre-theater, early-bird, and tasting menu options.

Filed by MessyChef at March 29th, 2008 under French, Restaurant Review
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